I did indeed. Am going to spend today when I get home from work identifying the amp on cable. It must be part of that set of cables going to the ISO.

Then am tempted to nuke anything out of the fibre optic network that isn't used, ie the navigation module under the drivers chair, the upper screen, the old head unit.

Quote:

The head unit is definitely powered up as I've stripped the main circuit board out of the head unit and that's all connected, including the MOST cable...

Quote:

Did you get the CANBUS adapter and SWC 'box' as well? As my SWC work and are programmable from the Android Head unit...

sounds like The ant/amp blue cable output, from the aftermarket head unit needs connecting to a LR wire.

The LR wire powers up lots of things.

I'll give that a shot and see where it goes.

humm

the landrover Red wire with blue stripe at the headunit needs grounding to power up the rest of the system

Try that and see if it helps. you can't leave it like that as you will get a flat battery

So there's 3 power cables that go to headunit.

Red, black and green.

The first two are obvious, the green routes to the head unit ant power and there's an amp output from the head unit as well. Connecting the two yields nothing

Andy K wrote:

humm

the landrover Red wire with blue stripe at the headunit needs grounding to power up the rest of the system

Try that and see if it helps. you can't leave it like that as you will get a flat battery

What do you mean by grounding up? Ie just connecting to ground?

Yes as a test.

Ensure it’s not connected to your headunit

That worked, how do I hook that up to switch? Because otherwise batteries gonna drain :p

Although the amp does turn off with the switch?

You need a relay.

Pin 30 and 85 to ground
Pin 86 to headunit ant amp blue? Wire
Pin 87 to landrover wire red/blue

Last edited by Andy K on Sun Mar 01 2020 8:48am. Edited 2 times in total

Hmm the screen retention kit came with one and since I butchered the out of it may as well reuse the relay. There's 100quud down the toilet to confirm a wire haha

Are those pins on the original head unit plug? Also couldn't I hook it up to the ground provided by the aftermarket headunit? Wouldn't that be dead when head unit is off?

After looking up a diagram for a relay it all makes sense

Be nice to have a picture or description of what u have working.

How's it going with the diagnosis? I've been looking online and from what I can see the OEM head unit MUST remain in the circuit as it is the system generator for the MOST circuit.

As such it has been suggested that the MOST adapter must be placed after the head unit in the MOST circuit closer to the Logic 7 amp so that it intercepts the signal and pushes it's own audio to the amp.

I haven't found a diagram for the Sport, however, I found THIS which helps with troubleshooting. It also provided the diagram below:



Further, it provides a couple of MOST circuit loops, including this one:

HEAD UNIT CCC/CIC/NBT>>L7AMP>>SAT>>TCU>>MULF>>HEAD UNIT

which I think probably closest represents the Sports when considering the placement of the physical units connected to the MOST. As such to get the MOST adapter to work it would need to be between the Head Unit and L7 amp.

I'm going to give this a try and see if I get any audio working. I've also order a replacement OEM head unit as I think mine is not 100% working (red laser light is) just to see if that would make a difference, as it may not be triggering the amp.

Let me know your thoughts on the above.

Cheers

Guy 2006 RRS S/C CONSTANTLY under modification...
1994 RRC 4.2l not LSE sadly gone but not forgotten
LR Defender 300Tdi - affectionately know as "The Black Beast"

I'd just connect the wire Andy said to ground and see if it yields the results you want. But I'd be interested if your technique would yield both head unit and upper head unit working with the ordering.

My issue is the relay is being weird and not working