Hi all,

I have found many posts and responses which relate to tailgate problems, but none which relate directly to my particular problem.

If I use either the fob or tailgate button, the tailgate will open fully then slowly sink until its only open about 12". If I use the button in the dash, the tailgate will open fully and stay there.

Additionally, the close button located in the tailgate, does not work however the boot is opened or at whatever position it comes to rest.

I am also getting what sounds like a small, dull thud when I manually close the tailgate. I can't see any obvious touch/ wear marks but feel there is a part of the tailgate which is being fouled somewhere during the closing operation (the noise happens immediately before the gate latches closed).

I suspect the fault lies with the struts as the passenger side is completely enclosed and the driver side has a little of the chrome 'ram' showing. Also, when the tailgate is closed, the driver side part of the tailgate stands off slightly. Would the struts cause there to be a larger gap on the drivers' side or is this a hinge alignment/ adjustment issue?

I've tried the reset option whilst holding the tailgate up but this has no effect.

Has anyone had this problem and know what the cause is? If I were to swap out the struts, are they plug and play or would I need to get them coded to the car? Has anyone tried to adjust the tailgate to remedy the shut line/ gap issues?

Any help would be appreciated.

What happens if (when the tail gate stops and begins to drop) you push the tail gate up manually until it stops? Does it drop again? 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

It does drop again. Whether I stop it dropping and push it all the way up or I wait for it to finish dropping then raise, it just lowers itself back to a 12" gap.

Certainly no expert, but the sounds a bit like a internal leak within the ram to me, maybe a seal or valve of some sort leaking back past or possibly if they are gas the gas has leaked out in some way rather than electrical issue but only a guess, don't think it should be showing any chrome either or mine certainly don't. Myself I think I would be trying a new ram unfortunately they are not cheap but Island 4x4 were doing genuine one's for £150.00 + vat. as compared to dealers at around £230.00 only a suggestion though.

Cheers
Col

Not sure it will help but it sounds like it is lowering itself to a pre set height,
the following shows how to reset the height you want..
wrong model but the process works..



May help may be of no use at all, but free and easy to check..

GL ===========================================
2012 Range Rover Sport Autobiography 3.0 SDV6 8 speed Automatic
Indus Silver with Hockenheim premium two-tone leather Ebony/Lunar,

I think the OP has tried to reset it already. It does sound like the struts are failing, my Sept 11 (12MY) had its struts replaced by the dealer (at a fair old cost) in 2014 so the original set only lasted 2 years! The cars now over 8 years old on that second set. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Had mine replaced at dealer on my MY2013 L320 last month. Even with staff discounts cost £365. Both should be done at the same time and takes technicians about 20 mins to recalibrate (apparently). There is no replacement for displacement - W O Bentley

MY2013 5.0 Supercharged HSE L320

Call me cynical but, I think the "recalibrate" is the expensive name for holdng the tailgate in the required position and press button until car "beeps".

Found this as well, it would appear the struts are not gas or oil a I thought they might be but, basicaly a rotating screw thread operated by a electrical motor to lift the tailgate up and down.




Cheers
Col

Probably a screw thread made of cheese. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

The struts were the problem!!

Click image to enlarge

If the new struts were a good price might be worth adding a link to them as may be of use to other members.

Cheers
Col

Probably not the cheapest struts out there but the link is -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2X-GAS-SPRING-S...SwYjRd86Z1

The tailgate gizmo (Also mentioned in other posts on this forum) -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Evo...2749.l2649

Seems like a fair price for a pair of the struts, probably be that for just one at L/R.

Cheers
Col

In my rrs 2013 after struts replacing with aftermarkets eBay … the tailgate open and close without pressing button for seconds time… any suggestions???