Anyone seen or used this before?

https://avinusa.com/most-fiber-optic-amp-i...ander.html

Effectively seems to state that I can use any headunit with remote on wire should work. Meaning I can retain the entire system rather than have to bypass the head unit?

Looks good although only has one set of RCA inputs so not sure how you could get front to rear fading and sub level control TDV8 now with extra grin factor thanks to Alive Tunning: Gone but not forgotten

I dont think you can. it says you cant on it.

look at the QA.

edit: ive ordered, ill probably get some bog standard head unit and see whats what.

RobP wrote:

Looks good although only has one set of RCA inputs so not sure how you could get front to rear fading and sub level control

Don't think two are an option as the amp only has one MOST input

As a simple solution it seems a good idea but is not going to offer the user the option to fine tune the sound set up between front and rear or tweak the crossover levels for each channel TDV8 now with extra grin factor thanks to Alive Tunning: Gone but not forgotten

am not the audiophile you guys seem to think i am the dog usually sits in the boot and 99% of the time the music is played for the driver.

so as long as all the speakers/sub/amp are active then its perfect.

also the reason am avoid another amp is laziness(dont want to learn to hook up a new amp) and cost(id rather spend that else where)

Fair enough. Would be good to post a review on it once you have fitted it TDV8 now with extra grin factor thanks to Alive Tunning: Gone but not forgotten

ill probably try make a video series out of it. its been hard to find resources for the L320 in terms of head units.

most seems like plug and play, but the hardest bit imo is finding a head unit thatll fix perfectly without a fascia and fit flush.

shameless bump, its all hooked up with a screen retention kit to boot.

BUT,

I can either have the amp working or the top screen, if i plug both into the fibre optic at the same time neither work, at that point i have to use a loop back cable to turn one or the other off, anyone any ideas why its doing this? i haven't hooked up the after market head unit yet.

Hmmm,

Interesting thread. I have the exact same unit and couldn't get it to work. How are you wiring up the remote wire from your new head unit to trigger the amp?

I don't have the problem of the SatNav screen as I have removed this and placed a larger screen there,

Sorry for the hijack...

Cheers

Guy 2006 RRS S/C CONSTANTLY under modification...
1994 RRC 4.2l not LSE sadly gone but not forgotten
LR Defender 300Tdi - affectionately know as "The Black Beast"

thats the results page https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic55744.html

but the remote wire was from the smoke lighter. or do you mean the b+/gnd? since they are from the main loom. tbf someone had already put it in place since there was a parrot system there and it worked perfectly. i can get ya a picture of it since the fascia and cage isn't in yet. currently held together via masking tape haha

Hi,

I'm talking about the remote on as detailed in the avin site you reference: https://avinusa.com/most-fiber-optic-amp-i...ander.html

It states:

"Your aftermarket radio must have the REMOTE ON feature to tell the factory amp to power on for sound output."

I have the remote on cable from my head unit but have no idea where to connect it to on the OEM Logic 7 amp to trigger it.

I think this is part of the problem I'm having gettign the unit to work as I can see it has power and also that the fibre optics are working (red light).

Nice build by the way

Cheers

Guy 2006 RRS S/C CONSTANTLY under modification...
1994 RRC 4.2l not LSE sadly gone but not forgotten
LR Defender 300Tdi - affectionately know as "The Black Beast"

I think in your case you connect that remote on from your head unit to the MOST interface. Since it'll power on the amp via fibre optic. I think my setup just bypasses the headunit and goes directly to the lighter, bit more caveman but yah.

I've figured out the problem your having, the network breaks when the head unit is unplugged because the upper screen isn't powered on. Mine worked because I have the screen retention kit which keeps the head unit powering on. But steering wheel controls don't work in my setup because the stock head unit captures them

Edit: the stuff above is wrong, it's because it's not getting the AMP on. The avin product never sends it and it only gets sent with the retain upper screen kit because the original head unit sends it

Thanks Mate for all the help.

Unfortunately, I have the screen retention kit fitted, just the screen isn't connected. I removed the FO loop which I had in lieu of the connecting the screen to the MOST circuit and plugged the AVIC unit in there.

The head unit is definitely powered up as I've stripped the main circuit board out of the head unit and that's all connected, including the MOST cable...

I think rather than trying to take short cuts I'm going to have to strip everything out and start from scratch and double check connections are good and the my OEM head unit really is getting power.

Did you get the CANBUS adapter and SWC 'box' as well? As my SWC work and are programmable from the Android Head unit...

Perhaps we can trouble shoot each other out so we get everything working.

Cheers

Guy 2006 RRS S/C CONSTANTLY under modification...
1994 RRC 4.2l not LSE sadly gone but not forgotten
LR Defender 300Tdi - affectionately know as "The Black Beast"