I'm assuming the cam bearing caps are lettered for LH side. If that's the case then who I bought heads off have mixed one of the numbered caps from the RH side.

Should the RH side be numbered and LH side lettered?

On the LH side I am currently working on as the two end caps can only go on one way I was using that as a guide.

I appreciate the bearing caps should only go on the way they came out the factory but the joys of buying second hand. RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

The manual indicates the positions.

I've scanned through the workshop manual and do see plenty of detail regarding the camshaft fitting, torque etc; but not the level of detail I need about bearing cap numbers, letters, location sequence. If you have the the manual and can let me know the page number that would be grand. RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

I do see in the LR workshop manual reference to letters A to I and R to Z

...however the heads I bought have numbers and letters, I assume one bank numbers and letters for other bank.

I did find this online (picture attached) of a C6 engine and it refers to numbers and letters also. Which makes me think the heads I have bought are off a C6 as the guy was selling them as off a RRS, I maybe wrong here but just a thought, thoughts?

Click image to enlarge

I have had a look at the relevant section of the topix manual - the sequence seems pretty straight forward and I don't see that diagram you have posted.

What workshop manual are you using - topix seems straight forward if missing a little detail for amateur mechanics.

garry 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

One bank is numbered, one bank is lettered.

Heads are likely to be identical between D3/4, RRS and PSA applications

garrycol wrote:

I have had a look at the relevant section of the topix manual - the sequence seems pretty straight forward and I don't see that diagram you have posted.

What workshop manual are you using - topix seems straight forward if missing a little detail for amateur mechanics.

garry

From the Citroen workshop manual

garrycol wrote:

I have had a look at the relevant section of the topix manual - the sequence seems pretty straight forward and I don't see that diagram you have posted.

What workshop manual are you using - topix seems straight forward if missing a little detail for amateur mechanics.

garry

Disco_Mikey wrote:

One bank is numbered, one bank is lettered.

Heads are likely to be identical between D3/4, RRS and PSA applications

DerrekL wrote:

garrycol wrote:

I have had a look at the relevant section of the topix manual - the sequence seems pretty straight forward and I don't see that diagram you have posted.

What workshop manual are you using - topix seems straight forward if missing a little detail for amateur mechanics.

garry

Thanks garrycol, the picture I attached in earlier post is an extract from the C6 Citroen manual. Can you send me a link to the topix manual.

does seam that the Citroen manual is better.

It also has torque values for the bottom end too, which the LR one doesn't IIRC.

garrycol wrote:

DerrekL wrote:

garrycol wrote:

I have had a look at the relevant section of the topix manual - the sequence seems pretty straight forward and I don't see that diagram you have posted.

What workshop manual are you using - topix seems straight forward if missing a little detail for amateur mechanics.

garry

Thanks garrycol, the picture I attached in earlier post is an extract from the C6 Citroen manual. Can you send me a link to the topix manual.

Its on Topix so you will need to buy a subscription and download it (or at least the sections you need) - it is the LR genuine information. https://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/

Andy K wrote:

does seam that the Citroen manual is better.

It also has torque values for the bottom end too, which the LR one doesn't IIRC.

Thanks Andy, yes glad I found this online as was bit worried when the bearing caps not in sequence when heads arrived. Anyways hopefully get a bit further now the weekend is nearly here.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

And that in itself would worry me enough not to use it

Andy K wrote:

Check all the threaded holes are clear. Wind bolts in all the way.
In particular the belt tensioner hole at back and fuel rail mount.
So much easier to find you have an issue now rather than later.

Make sure the bracket for the water pipe is fitted at the back.

Clean engine face off to ensure clean.

Put head on with exhaust studs, gasket and green thing which I think helps keep gasket from falling off.

Check everything is aligned.

Put head bolts in as tighten as per sequence.

You can put a bit of wire into the chain tensioner to keep in together

Put clean oil into a jar and put the hydraulic lifters in one by one and pump them to draw in oil.
Fit to head.

Note the chain has 2 red links. This is to allign with cams square cuts outs to ensure it's timed correctly.

If the cam wheels are still fitted with cover you need to get them and chain back into the head.
Get the chain tensioner in between chain and fitted the correct way round so the oil hole in aligned.

The cam brackets must match the head it came from.
They are engraved with numbers to show their position. Refer to manual.

Fit bolts hand tight. Ensure you are happy with timing and red chain links still by cut outs.

The clamps by the wheels have some glue under it to seal it (as per eBay link)

Rotate cams a small amount to ensure they move freely.

Get rear belt and cover sorted. Fun!

With this it's aways worth checking things are alligned and getting bolts half in to ensure the sequence is possible and things alligned.

Before fitting cam cover for the last time ensure chain tension pin is removed , the rear fuel pipe is loosly fitted and pour a bit of fresh oil over cams

Tighten exhaust manifold and don't forget heat shield before egrs!

Rear egr pipe is bigger than front so the blanks don't fit