Hi All
What are the best tyre to get for my 22" Rims, I am currently Running Toyo Proxie Sports 285/35R22 106Y.
Just looking if there are any better tyres available without having to sell a kidney !

TIA

Mitchelin is my preference on my car not cheap but you get what you pay for Well hear I am

For every tyre you’ll find one person proclaiming it the best ever, and another calling it a ditchfinder.
I’ve run premium and I’ve run mid range, and what I’ve learned over the years is that there’s a lot of nonsense spoken about tyres.
Most people will never test near the capabilities of their tyres so it’s rather like saying your car is limited to 155. Doesn’t make it any faster when we’re stuck in an average 50 zone. My Merc came on Bridgestones and when, 6 months in, I needed to replace them, money was tight so I chanced a set of mid range tyres figuring they’d wear out in 8k and it’d probably understeer but I’d have the cash to go back to Bridgestones soon so it’d tide me over. So I was shocked to find the grip and handling was almost identical, as was the lifespan. I had several mid range brands after that and all were fine. My last Jag I ran on Goodyear F1s. It was a sports saloon and I could afford the best so fine.

I was a little disappointed to find my expensive gleaming L494 sitting on “Triangle” tyres when I collected it from the dealer. The previous owner obviously knew it was going so put the cheapest rubber they could find on it. Funnily enough though, they ride really well, quiet, no loss of grip I’ve been able to detect and wearing well, despite being “crap”. The only outstanding question in mind is, last winter, I was on the M62. Wet, dark, the moron in the transit in front of me suddenly darted to the inside lane, leaving me doing 70, towards a line of stationary traffic. The Goodyears did their thing and I stopped just in time. If I’d been in this car, would I have been so lucky? So I’m in a similar quandary.
I don’t think there’s a right answer, except maybe whatever you buy should perhaps have a minimum B rating for wet grip? 2021 L494 D300MHEV Autobiography
2019 Discovery Sport D180 HSE

On my 22" Overfinch Elara's after having them refurbished at Wheelmania in Evesham - they recommended Falken FK510 SUV, they are nice and quiet tyres and are good in wet and dry, not that I drive the car like I stole it mind you.

Falken reviews are up there with Michelin and Continental, but are classed as a mid range tyre, punching above its weight.

Dean

Shortly after I first bought my RRS, I put new tyres on all round. I liked the look of the tread pattern on some Uniroyals (supposedly very good in the wet)and so fitted them. I then have an issue with steering wander and spent a fair amount of time and money getting the car 4 wheel aligned (twice!) and then put it into my local indie a few times to try and sort the problem. All to no avail. when the time came to replace the Uniroyals I decided to go back to the factory fitted Pirellis. Problem solved! No more wandering. Very weird but I assume the RRS didn't like the tread pattern...

Oh, and has been said before on this forum, the bits of the car that can be the difference between life and death are those 4 little patches of rubber touching the road so skimping is a bad policy. Robin
2008 Range Rover Sport TDV8
Gone:
Jaguar S-Type V8 4.2 Sport
MGZTT 190 2.5

I’ll always fit what came on my RRS when new which are Pirelli Scorpion Verde’s They last 35k miles and if you shop around you can get them for around £800 for 21” which I think is an utter bargain.

Of course, £800 is a lot of money but these car’s deserve to have the money spent on them and they’re lasting me five years so it’s a no brainer.

It's amazing the difference extra inch makes.
Pirelli Scorpion Verde all season - 275/40/22 - bargain 'deal of the day' price - £1,200 for a set
Just hoping my "Triangle" tyres don't suddenly become ditchfinders in the winter!
At less than half the price of the Pirelli's, I'm nervous but cautiously optimistic. Interestingly mine are TH201's which are C for wet grip (which concerns me) whereas they also have a TH202 (new version?) that's even cheaper and listed as A. Might be the bargain of the century! 2021 L494 D300MHEV Autobiography
2019 Discovery Sport D180 HSE

The first place I looked, as I got mine from here when shopping around:


https://www.halfords.com/tyres/pirelli/pir...lacement=5


15% off a set of four so comes out at just under £1070. And they’ll let you pay interest free with PayPal so you don’t have to shell out all at once.

I usually look at blackcircles, have had success with tyreshopper (national tyres), Halford and when they have what you need, Costco are brilliant! 2021 L494 D300MHEV Autobiography
2019 Discovery Sport D180 HSE

Actually, we’ve only just joined Costco and their prices seemed very good for tyres. Wife’s Evoque will need doing next, so I’ll be definitely having a look there.

I used Camskill Tyres a few times when still in the U.K. I see they have the 22" Verde all season NCS tyre at £217.00 each the 21's slightly less, of course there is still the additional fitting and balance cost.

Cheers
Col

The question of premium vs saving money on "cheap" tyres comes up from time to time. The use of the tyre label rating is interesting as it is intended to show which tyre is better. But it only really applies within the tyre manufacturer's range of tyres. A wet "C" from one maker will perform differently to a wet "C" from another when tested against each other.

Objective testing pretty much always shows that premium tyres are better in the important stuff e.g. braking, than cheap tyres.

An example: https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre-Tests/Are...m-Tyre.htm

Buying cheap tyres is fine but one has to remember that there is a compromise and that you have to account for that in your driving. Giving much more room and paying more attention in the wet, for example. Yes, we should all do that anyway but if your tyres are taking 2, 3 or 4 car lengths longer to stop, then you need to add that in on top of what you normally give extra for wet conditions.

Those of us who choose to run AT tyres also have to take account of the reduced performance vs a pure road tyre. An AT will have a longer braking distance most of the time. ATs always test poorly in comparison with pure road tyres simply because of the compromises required in making a tyre that can go off road. Likewise, cheap road tyres make compromises in order to be cheap. You get what you pay for, after all. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

I agree with 99% of what you say, except
"But it only really applies within the tyre manufacturer's range of tyres. A wet "C" from one maker will perform differently to a wet "C" from another when tested against each other."

From what I can gather, it is a comparison but based to a 'reference value' rather than each other in a specific test.
The best explanation I can find is

"the new tyre is mounted on a trolley pulled by a vehicle, which drives round at a constant speed (65 km/h), under specific load and pressure conditions, defined, as ever, by a European Community standard.

During this drive, the tyre is braked and the maximum force which it is able to generate is measured. The same measurement process is applied to a reference tyre, i.e. one which has already been “certified” under the standard. The relationship between the normalised braking force applied to the tyre being measured and that of the standard tyre represents the wet grip index. The higher the Wet Grip Index, the better will be the ability of the tyre to react in complicated situations: class A has a WG greater than 1.55, class B between 1.40 and 1.54, and so on until you arrive at E with a WG lower than or equal to 1.09."

So it seems they're testing against a baseline and not other tyres in the test.

So it should mean that a cheap A rated tyre will be pretty close to a premium A rated for that particular test. Of course how they achieved that is another question. Everything in engineering is a compromise so maybe noise, lifespan or dry grip has been compromised, but we should be able to tell.

If I'm honest, I've rarely experienced much difference between mid and premium brands. Feel, grip, noise, lifespan etc are all pretty equal. The only exception was with thick V grooved tyres which looked great but were noisy due to the way air is squeezed out as they compress - so I tend to buy blocky rather than grooved tyres.

The problem is of course is that the only time we properly test our tyres is in an emergency stop in cold wet conditions, and then, if found wanting, a) we have no term of reference and b), it's probably too late. 2021 L494 D300MHEV Autobiography
2019 Discovery Sport D180 HSE

If all tyres are tested equally against a given data point, then all tyres given a particular rating ought to perform the same on a car. But tyre testing of various tyres back to back shows that some of these tyres perform much worse than others from other manufacturers. Which suggests that some manufacturers might be designing to the test and others are designing to reality and then is showing up well in the test.

Also worth noting that the tyre label grades are a range of grips - so two tyres could each be a B but one is at the top of the grade, the other at the bottom. In a test where all tyres are A or B, then the one at the bottom of the B grade will be noticeably worse than the best of the tested tyres (the A and upper B graded tyres). That's natural spread, of course, but if you're in a test of very good tyres, being simply good looks bad (IYSWIM). That "bad" tyre would look great ina comparison with C and D grade tyres.

Continental have a huge tyre testing setup. They have several testing sites around the world, test for pretty much every situation and every condition. Pirelli have 12 technology centres and various test sites around the world. Michelin has at least 4 test sites around the world. These manufacturers also get involved in high end motorsport. Lots of R&D investment shows in the results when compared to other less-well resourced manufacturers.

The Chinese tyre makers have traditionally not been able/willing to do that level of testing and, indeed, predominantly make tyres for the Chinese market - lots of urban use, not big demand for high performance tyres, etc.. So their product will be tailored accordingly and that's entirely understandable. The Chinese are in the process of updated their domestic legal testing requirements so it'll be interesting to see if their tyres start to match the best of the European manufacturers in 3rd party comparison tests.

Your point about personal experience is a great one - most of us never try tyres back to back in near-enough identical conditions. Even when we buy new tyres, we're comparing apples and oranges even if they're the same tyre make and model simply because new and old tyres are so different. And as you say, many of us never push a tyre to extremes either.

I have experienced aquaplaning, or rather incipient aquaplaning on the ATs I've got currently where I never did with other ATs. I know about it now and consider it. Indeed, it's one aspect that's making me consider a change to a previously used tyre when these are replaced.

If you're interested, this comparison of a premium and cheap tyre in various conditions in both new and worn down tread depth is worth a few minutes.  2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed