Did my first oil change over the weekend but put the wrong oil in it appears for an engine with a dpf.

I used Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF but should've used the Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF-L it appears.

Is it worth worrying about, should i change it straight away or will it wait 6 months until the next change? Anyone knows whats the difference between the 2 oils?

Thanks in advance

Pete. L494 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY20 in Eiger Grey (Current)
L494 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY14 in Chile Red
L320 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY10 in Baltic Blue (RIP first RRS love 29/03/2021 insurance total loss)

The difference is one is suitable for dpf models the other isn’t

Hiya Pete
your post got me curious into what the difference is in those oils ,

https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-artic...lained.pdf


every day is a school day

k

I’d change it if it was mine especially if it’s non DPF compliant
Opie Oils do discount  Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* GONE: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

It states.

quickly, block or permanently damage a DPF (through physical particles and DPF damaging burnt oil gases). This is where a Low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous, Sulphur) motor oil comes in, it's basically a low Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur based oil, if a normal engine oil was used these elements would quickly block and the gases would terminally damage the intercut internal of a DPF.

Looks like i'm changing it then

Thanks guys L494 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY20 in Eiger Grey (Current)
L494 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY14 in Chile Red
L320 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY10 in Baltic Blue (RIP first RRS love 29/03/2021 insurance total loss)

Just think of it like you are you doing an engine flush  Kev

MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

And you’ve been educated, it won’t happen again  2006 2.7 TDV6 HSE in Cairns Blue.

knwatkins wrote:

Just think of it like you are you doing an engine flush

Yeah thats what i'm telling myself  L494 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY20 in Eiger Grey (Current)
L494 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY14 in Chile Red
L320 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY10 in Baltic Blue (RIP first RRS love 29/03/2021 insurance total loss)

Stevepd wrote:

And you’ve been educated, it won’t happen again

Every day's a school day  L494 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY20 in Eiger Grey (Current)
L494 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY14 in Chile Red
L320 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY10 in Baltic Blue (RIP first RRS love 29/03/2021 insurance total loss)

DrRob wrote:

I’d change it if it was mine especially if it’s non DPF compliant
Opie Oils do discount

yez.

you can get 20 litres for less than that off ebay. Do you 3 changes.



https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kerax-HyperDriv...SwcedamtMd

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-20L-helix...SwtEleaiO-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5W-30-Fully-Syn...SwZnRdb9mD


I assume C1 is the correct oil

As the old saying goes, any oil is better than no oil, but the right oil will do the job properly. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Andy K wrote:

yez.

you can get 20 litres for less than that off ebay. Do you 3 changes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kerax-HyperDriv...SwcedamtMd

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-20L-helix...SwtEleaiO-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5W-30-Fully-Syn...SwZnRdb9mD


I assume C1 is the correct oil Rolling with laughter

Kev on here uses a bulk supplier, he might read this and put a link in........ Calling Kev 2006 2.7 TDV6 HSE in Cairns Blue.