knwatkins wrote:

Apologies, I noticed a typo in my previous post. You need a 38mm socket for the valve block.

Concerning the fittings, I would get good quality fittings from a hydraulic specialist, not Chinese cheapies from eBay.

ah it seems I won't need them anyways. ill get the 38mm ordered. ta

Disco_Mikey wrote:

If your profile is correct, and its an 06 car, the outrigger will unbolt from the chassis, so you won't have to lift the body at all

In all fairness, I do them on the floor. Saves a lot of hassle

I’ve used a similar stuff (it maybe the same stuff without the brand name) but it doesn’t appear to work for long on the exposed areas, I think the hostile environment under the car just means nothing can stop the onset of corrosion other than regular preventative maintenance. The ACF is designed for aircraft and sounds like it’s good stuff, but an in service aircraft is checked all over on a Before Flight, After Flight and Turn Round servicing. Corrosion and damage is picked up and dealt with in a planned manner. How often to we actually go under a car, clean it, inspect it and address corrosion. The average person probably never sees the underside of a their car. I oil the exposed underside where I can but I think it’s just in my head and probably won’t make any difference in the long run 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

i used it before on my motorcycles when I used to ride the winters. to its credit applied every 3 month it kept them rust free. so i may do something similar. around winter time

right i've managed to secure a drive for for this saturday haha. lets say I take the pipes off and the valve block the bed. will the car be driveable as long as i don't take the on the cornering and I plug the ace reservoir and sway bars incase I need to get it home?

The ACE pump is running all the time as it runs off an Aux belt. You will likely knacker the pump by running it dry. You could maybe somehow connect the feed and return together so it feeds in a loop but it does operate at upto 300bar (I think that’s right). Pray those pipes come out.

When I did mine, I undid the nuts securing the plate, and pulled the plate back along the pipes and freed one pipe at a time. That way I was only fighting the one rather than all 4. Lots of penetrating oil starting ASAP, it can’t do any harm. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

ill do that. i was just going to cut the old pipes tbh front and back and remove the valve block then work on it from there

Yeah you could do that but give yourself plenty of pipe length on the block for you to grasp hold of. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Looking at the new pipes. It seems the entire old block pipe holder comes out and the new ones slots in?

Yes that’s right, the whole plate/holder is replaced. If I remember correctly, the plate holds the plastic seals over the flared parts of the pipe. I originally saved those seals just in case but I soon binned them when I didn’t have any leeks. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I guess we'll see how it all goes. the valve block, is it held with screws from underneath or is that some on top?

Guess what I've got on tomorrow

haha did your pipes go again?

Customers car

Actually, a forum members car

Booked in for a rear ARC bar, covered by his warranty. Car went up on the ramp, and the front pipes were also leaking