Bodsy wrote:

Oops, just seen fkarims write up

That rear panel would pop off so you could feed the wire hidden instead of thought the vent. Just makes it a ballache if it needs to come off again.

I would run the wire not thought the headlining, but down under the footwell plastic panel and then up, but both ways would be fine I'm sure.

Thanks for highlighting the differences between a DIYer and a pro I will follow your advice if I need to remove and re-install for any reason or when I upgrade to the 2 camera system.

Do you know what type of fuses L494 has Bodsy? I think they may be called Micro2 but I can't find them in any shops and don't want to order online until I know they are the correct ones. I find it strange that LR would supply cars with fuses that are not readily available in that market. Not using the piggybacks and just having to twist the wires on the existing fuses keeps niggling me. Current: Volvo XC90 T8 Inscription Pro PHEV with some optionals on top
Gone: MY16 RRS2 3.0 SDV6 Autobiography Dynamic, Carpathian Grey & Santorini Black Sliding Pano/Ebony & Ivory 2 Tone
Gone: MY13 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Black Edition, Orkney Grey/Ivory
Gone: MY09 RRS 2.7 TDV6 HSE, Santorini Black/Almond

Violetpiano wrote:

RRSman wrote:

Hi Jas,

Details are: http://www.avrmobiles.co.uk/acatalog/dash-...meras.html

I never used him as he is not an authorised BlackVue dealer or installer but he said he can do a fitting in my RRS.

I'm still looking to have this done but need someone who knows what they are doing.

Thanks RRSman,

I think I would prefer an authorised dealer / installer to do mine to. If you come across one please do let us know.

Cheers
Jas

There are quite a few people advertising fitting of the cameras including Blackvue who have a network of nationwide fitters at there disposal. The price was £144 if i remember correctly  MY16 AUTOBIOGRAPHY Indus silver with some toys

2012 3.0 SDV6 Luxury gone, but a great motor

fkarim wrote:

Bodsy wrote:

Oops, just seen fkarims write up

That rear panel would pop off so you could feed the wire hidden instead of thought the vent. Just makes it a ballache if it needs to come off again.

I would run the wire not thought the headlining, but down under the footwell plastic panel and then up, but both ways would be fine I'm sure.

Thanks for highlighting the differences between a DIYer and a pro I will follow your advice if I need to remove and re-install for any reason or when I upgrade to the 2 camera system.

Do you know what type of fuses L494 has Bodsy? I think they may be called Micro2 but I can't find them in any shops and don't want to order online until I know they are the correct ones. I find it strange that LR would supply cars with fuses that are not readily available in that market. Not using the piggybacks and just having to twist the wires on the existing fuses keeps niggling me.

Thanks rigsby  Current: Volvo XC90 T8 Inscription Pro PHEV with some optionals on top
Gone: MY16 RRS2 3.0 SDV6 Autobiography Dynamic, Carpathian Grey & Santorini Black Sliding Pano/Ebony & Ivory 2 Tone
Gone: MY13 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Black Edition, Orkney Grey/Ivory
Gone: MY09 RRS 2.7 TDV6 HSE, Santorini Black/Almond

rigsby wrote:

fkarim wrote:

Bodsy wrote:

Oops, just seen fkarims write up

That rear panel would pop off so you could feed the wire hidden instead of thought the vent. Just makes it a ballache if it needs to come off again.

I would run the wire not thought the headlining, but down under the footwell plastic panel and then up, but both ways would be fine I'm sure.

Thanks for highlighting the differences between a DIYer and a pro I will follow your advice if I need to remove and re-install for any reason or when I upgrade to the 2 camera system.

Do you know what type of fuses L494 has Bodsy? I think they may be called Micro2 but I can't find them in any shops and don't want to order online until I know they are the correct ones. I find it strange that LR would supply cars with fuses that are not readily available in that market. Not using the piggybacks and just having to twist the wires on the existing fuses keeps niggling me.

The fuses i think are as you say micro 2 ATR and are not easy to find anywhere especially if you want piggy back fuses. I eventually found a UK company called Costar who stock them. The piggy backs are item number 6029 @ about £2.50 each. As soon as mine turn up I will confirm that they are the correct type

They arrived this morning and are the correct type  MY16 AUTOBIOGRAPHY Indus silver with some toys

2012 3.0 SDV6 Luxury gone, but a great motor

thanks Current: Volvo XC90 T8 Inscription Pro PHEV with some optionals on top
Gone: MY16 RRS2 3.0 SDV6 Autobiography Dynamic, Carpathian Grey & Santorini Black Sliding Pano/Ebony & Ivory 2 Tone
Gone: MY13 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Black Edition, Orkney Grey/Ivory
Gone: MY09 RRS 2.7 TDV6 HSE, Santorini Black/Almond

I have also ordered. Did yours come with 15 Amp fuses or do they have built-in fuses (so you only have to add 1 fuse of your own) rigsby? They just have the 5 Amp fuses in that size advertised on their website. Current: Volvo XC90 T8 Inscription Pro PHEV with some optionals on top
Gone: MY16 RRS2 3.0 SDV6 Autobiography Dynamic, Carpathian Grey & Santorini Black Sliding Pano/Ebony & Ivory 2 Tone
Gone: MY13 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Black Edition, Orkney Grey/Ivory
Gone: MY09 RRS 2.7 TDV6 HSE, Santorini Black/Almond

Hi, no they didn't come with any fuses but there is a spare fuse of each size in the fusebox that could be used  MY16 AUTOBIOGRAPHY Indus silver with some toys

2012 3.0 SDV6 Luxury gone, but a great motor

Great Current: Volvo XC90 T8 Inscription Pro PHEV with some optionals on top
Gone: MY16 RRS2 3.0 SDV6 Autobiography Dynamic, Carpathian Grey & Santorini Black Sliding Pano/Ebony & Ivory 2 Tone
Gone: MY13 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Black Edition, Orkney Grey/Ivory
Gone: MY09 RRS 2.7 TDV6 HSE, Santorini Black/Almond

Just seen this from an earlier thread by philm

" Has someone fitted a tracker or something to the trailer supply? If so you'll get problems - I had this on my first Sport. The fitter found a nice 12v supply to tap into and so did. Unfortunately the car powers down the supply after 15 minutes or so if it is not connected. It became a game to see how far from the house I could get before being called from the Tracker company. "

Funny as Wednesday I suddenly lost power to mine ??

As it happens I've got to take it all back out again anyway as I somehow managed to damage the camera lead plug and it keeps working loose and losing the rear camera . AARRRGGGHH

Might have to re think the power supply, maybe go for the fuses behind the glove box, has anyone gone that route for the power ? MY16 AUTOBIOGRAPHY Indus silver with some toys

2012 3.0 SDV6 Luxury gone, but a great motor

Which trailer fuse did you use? F15 or F54? I initially used F15 and found it wasn't permanently live so went for F54 instead and my camera stays on until the number of days or battery voltage threshold on the Power Magic is reached. Current: Volvo XC90 T8 Inscription Pro PHEV with some optionals on top
Gone: MY16 RRS2 3.0 SDV6 Autobiography Dynamic, Carpathian Grey & Santorini Black Sliding Pano/Ebony & Ivory 2 Tone
Gone: MY13 RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Black Edition, Orkney Grey/Ivory
Gone: MY09 RRS 2.7 TDV6 HSE, Santorini Black/Almond

I went for f54 and f44 but i may have a not very good connection as they were only temporary. Got to re run the cable anyway so I will check it all out properly  MY16 AUTOBIOGRAPHY Indus silver with some toys

2012 3.0 SDV6 Luxury gone, but a great motor

Just been to the garage and had a look and I can see the light on the camera so it must be powered ok  MY16 AUTOBIOGRAPHY Indus silver with some toys

2012 3.0 SDV6 Luxury gone, but a great motor

I fitted one of these to my car yesterday. One thing to add to this very helpful thread is that my car is a late MY15 the fuses used in it are standard micro fuses available from any high street auto parts company beginning with H. You can also get the Add a circuit devices from the same shop although they are located in the ICE section not the fuses section strangely.

This will teach me to try to be smart and order parts without checking first.

I bought a Thinkware F750 front & rear dashcam including parking mode and fitting from the RAC. Collected new RRS on Thur Dec 17th and dash fitted at home address on the 18th (last Friday). Fitter knew his stuff but some things I'd wish I'd known pre purchase. Did ask on another thread for advice but very little was forthcoming. Thanks to those that did help. Things to bear in mind!

1. Most RRS front window installations will go behind the rear view mirror on the front pax side. The RRS has a huge rain sensor which means the camera won't be as tucked away as you would wish. Unfortunately to release the dashcam from its mounting it can only be slid to the right. This means you have to locate the dash about 3 inches to the left of the rear view mirror mount to leave room to slide from its mounting and for the cable/s. Shame the design didn't enable camera release sliding in either direction. The guide shows pics referring to a LHD car so I guess it is catering for that larger market, as they'd install on the RHS behind the mirror meaning removing the camera to right would be simple. Fitting as described means the camera lens view is not quite dead centre on the bonnet but it's perfectly acceptable. Might be an issue if you used the lane departure dashcam warning feature. I haven't/won't use it. If you wish to have a more central camera position you could fit the camera behind the rear view mirror on the driver's side. Obviously you would see more of the unit/wires. Because I had the auto high beam assist option (the sensor for it is behind the mirror on the RHS (might also be part of the rain sensor...not sure?) I could not install on the driver's side. The main advantages would be that the camera lens would be more central for recording ahead and far easier camera removal.

2. Assuming you have front and rear cameras, along with parking mode, at the front you will only see about 4" of cable....from the unit to the roof lining. Hardly noticeable. The rear camera, does not wire in as well. To allow for opening/closing of the tailgate you need about a foot of cable which means when the tailgate is closed and you look in your rear view mirror you will see some looped cable. Little unsightly but you soon get used to it. It would however draw attention to the camera from any vehicle behind you. That also goes for the front camera as it's not tucked away that well.

3. If the rear view camera is fitted to the rear tailgate window top dead centre, note that the rear window wiper won't wipe the relevant area in front of the lens....really annoying!!! A way round this would be to fit the rear camera about 3 inches to either side of centre. Catches the wipe but looks somewhat odd and the rear footage will be of centre. With hindsight I wish I hadn't bothered with purchasing a rear view camera but as I had I went ahead and had it installed anyway.

4. All other wiring was tucked away behind seals/panels etc. Unless you know how these panels clip on/release I wouldn't recommend a novice attempting to install. You stand more chance of breaking panels or clips/retainers etc or tearing seals.

5. Forget any idea about removing the micro SD card whilst it's in position. Again, a design error in my opinion as access to the card is via the top of the camera. Removing/replacing the camera is somewhat awkward.

6. The associated phone app is very good but setting the camera to cut off from park recording by adjusting the voltage settings is proving a bit hit and miss. Two ranges are available: Off voltage 12v - range 11.6 -12.3V (fitter set this to 11.8v and the car wouldn't start the next morning! I've now set this to 12.2v. Off voltage 24v - range 23.2 - 24.6v (mines set at 24.4). I'd appreciate knowing what others have found works for them?

7. Make sure you copy the folders from the micro sd card before first use as that is where the pdf instruction manual and pc viewer software is. Once formatted you'd lose these.

8. You can't use the phone app to live view your camera footage and record at the same time. Sensible safety precaution. You also can't enable wifi on the dashcam to find you phone app whilst in park record mode.

9. From the quick installation guide it implies you can fit the device to the front screen and then later from within the app adjust the camera lens both vertically and horizontally....at least that is how I understood it. What you actually have to do is, using the app in live view mode you can adjust the camera manually on the dashcam unit vertically by rotating the lens position. You can't however do anything horizontally. I believe it auto aligns anyway horizontally but with fixing the camera in position first (and on the RRS off centre to the left) once it's fixed to the window you are stuck with it as is. The guide could be better written to suggest using live view to centre the camera as best before you permanently attach the window mount to the front window.

10. The fitter with the cable route he uses always runs out of length on the power cable from the front dashcam to the rear cam. He lengthened it with the RAC's own materials and at the same time removed the Thinkware supplied parking cable single fuse and attached 2 RAC supplied ones.

11. The paperwork implies that the unit auto updates if the "update" folder is on the micro sd card. It wasn't on mine. I updated the 'safety' camera alerts by visiting the Thinkware support website. I'll ring/email them re the missing update folder. The docs also imply that you can update the device by using the app from an apple iOS device. Couldn't find a way of achieving this either.

Final tips if installing on a RRS.
Unless you know your stuff don't risk installing yourself.
Think hard about if you need a rear camera (particularly if you are self-installing)
Think hard about front camera location pro's and con's.

With all the above in mind I'm very happy with the final outcome. I thought I'd see more wires. The recording quality is 1st class. The camera alerts are a big bonus. I'm not intending to use the lane departure or front collision warnings. The app is superb. Just hope they don't bring a new model out in the next few months.....usually happens to me! RRS 4.4AB 15.5MY Fuji/Ivory
Thinkware F750 front/rear dashcam

Last edited by duvl on Sun Feb 21 2016 5:25pm. Edited 2 times in total