I have a 2010 3.6 TDV8.

I replaced the battery when I bought it (May '24), as a matter of maintenance and new to me service requirements.

I have a CTEK One charger and regularly charge the battery as an when I remember, I drive 10 miles to and from work daily.

I appreciate these Sports are VERY electrically dependent, but wanted to check what peoples own experiences are of voltage and battery life.

The battery I have is an Exide EK950 95AH 019 AGM battery.

When I attach my GAP iid tool to the car, the voltage shows on the dash as 12.2 volts sat with engine off, sat with the GAP tool attached.

I know 12.2 volts seems to be 60% charged, I have no trouble starting the car, and it runs fine and also have no issues with any gremlins that I understand arise if the battery is playing up. I get the usual high 13 volts when engine idling.

Other than checking with a multimeter, I guess after the car has gone to sleep after the usual 2 minutes with the bonnet open and check the voltage.

I wondered what peoples thoughts are.

I've always been recommended Exide by my local battery specialist in Cheltenham, but understand that manufacturing for such batteries have changed in recent times, I've had Varta in my time on other vehicles also.

Cheers Dean

Last edited by RallyeSport on Thu Sep 18 2025 8:27pm. Edited 1 time in total

I recently changed my battery which was a Varta AGM and it had been on the car for nine years, then only changed it as low battery warning was showing occasionally, plus the car has never had a flat battery in the 12 years I have owned it although I do use a ctek charger.

Cheers
Col

Hi Col,

Its just I thought the regular 12.2 volt indication when the GAP tool is attached, seemed a little low.

I'll check the voltage after 10 minutes or so at the weekend with the multimeter attached.

I might consider a 020 battery if it fits, maybe a Varta Silverline, as I've had good results before with them and have a longer warranty that the Exide at 5 years versus 3 years.

Cheers Dean

I can't really remember but I think that's about the voltage my gap tool shows when connected without ignition on, I did try and fit a 020 battery but it was to much of a squeeze to get it in the space as was forced up against wiring and a ecu if I remember correctly, as it is around 40mm longer than the 019, not sure if the space on a S/C is smaller though, as there is a second air filter where the FBH is on the diesel, but wouldn't think it is though, although I do believe some have fitted the 020 on one or the other.

Cheers
Col

Your idle voltage seems low in my opinion. Mine pushes 14.7 shortly after startup at idle and drops to around 14v after driving a bit. Granted mine has the BMS system, but high 13’s still seems low. My Varta AGM is 4.5 years old and still shows 12.4v to 12.6v after sitting overnight. I do not use a battery tender/charger on it. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

The voltage at idle I’ll check again the weekend, that was a guesstimate to be honest, I know the charging system is ok.

Thanks for the reply.

Ideally you should check the battery when it's entirely shut down as opening the door to plug in the IID will wake up all of the ECUs and give a seemingly low voltage. Do you have tow electrics? You can check through the plug if so as it has a permanent live and earth supply - that's how I check mine. Alternatively, Ctek leads connected to the battery and left for a while after it's locked and then checked with a multimeter.

If you do have tow electrics, there is a connector that allows you to plug your Ctek in to the tow electrics to charge the battery. It's how I charge mine when I occasionally do so.

If it's 12.2V when totally, definitely, asleep then I would be putting it on charge at the soonest opportunity. It'll likely need regular charging anyway with your 2x 10 miles/day trips usage, especially in colder weather.

Always worth remembering that the battery will show a higher voltage if it's been recently run so best to check it several hours after it's been used. Also, the voltage isn't the only thing that needs to be checked. A battery can show 12.7V but have little charge capacity as batteries deteriorate over time. A seemingly healthy battery can then struggle to perform when a decent draw is placed on it. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Avoid Exide

Yes, Varta should be ok.

or if you want a cheaper brand, Numax. (got 13 years out of one of them in a basic car)
and has been good in an RRS

Mine is showing similar figures to No Expert. 12.69v left overnight, when unlocking car and everything wakes up dropped to 12.2 which is the same as the gap tool shows on the dash, start the car at idle shot up to 14.8v then settled at 14.73v, never had chance to go for a run to see what it eventualy dropped to. The battery is only a few months old so that may be helping figures a little as well.

Cheers
Col

Numax is a marine specified battery ie testing done at 0 deg c not -18 as for a car battery.

All voltage readings for testing should be at the battery terminals and should show 12.5v or more after standing 24 hrs With engine on rises to 14.4 then drops if computer controlled alternator. Always listen to old people or when they die you will live on in ignorance.
The avatar is a picture of the man with a big cock.
Learned to 4x4 on 100 mile beach and Frazer Island QLD
Dont spend money on old cars you will never get it back