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Rick08



Member Since: 20 Jul 2025
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey
RRS 2010 3.0 td6, ARC bar advice needed.

Hello everyone, first time posting.

I bought a 2010 RRS 3.0. A few months ago. My front ARC bar is weeping.
One of the bushes are also worn causing the bar to move and squeak.

From what I could research this was going to cost about £2000 to replace the front bar.
After speaking to the indie specialist to book it in, He informs me that the pressure from bleeding the system can cause damage to the pipes and even the back ARC bar.
Resulting in a whole replacement, £4000-£5000.

Is this right?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I’ve also found conversion kits to make the ARC bars standard, The conversion kit is £800.
Should I consider converting it to standard bars?

Post #649525 Fri Aug 22 2025 5:53pm
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RRSTDV8



Member Since: 13 Aug 2011
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 9115

United Kingdom 2012 Range Rover Sport SDV6 HSE Orkney Grey

Sounds like someone telling you the absolute worst news possible and the associated big bill in order to have you set up for the big bill he then gives you.

Changing the front bar isn't likely to cause the rear to fail or the pipes to burst. The pipes are known to corrode in the front right wheel arch but they'll have done that or they won't have. Changing the bar won't affect the outcome unless they've already corroded badly enough that they're ready to leak/already leaking.

I wouldn't consider removing the system until you've driven one with the standard bars (or a Discovery with the standard bars as there are lots of those around and they're basically the same running gear). They will handle differently but whether it's enough to bother you is something only you can decide.

Does the £800 kit also deal with the hydraulic system or is it just 4 struts and a bypass box for the air suspension ECU? You'd at least need to loop the hydraulics so the pump etc., can be left on. Otherwise you'll need to find a way to remove the pump and fit a different drive belt. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Post #649526 Fri Aug 22 2025 8:01pm
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Rick08



Member Since: 20 Jul 2025
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey

I can’t speak on the integrity of the mechanic, I have only used them once before. They carried out a new timing belt replacement and full service.

When he explained it to me, he said that the pressure from bleeding the system (20psi I think he said) could cause pipes to burst/split, and the rear to go if they where weak or rusty like you say.
He did give me the impression tho, that this was going to be the case.

As far as I know my rear bar is fine, so it shouldn’t be likely to fail when I get the front done?

I have been reading through forums on here about it, one mentioned bleeding using 10psi. If I’m right in thinking the mechanic said 20psi, could that additional pressure make failure of other parts more likely?

He also gave me the worst news about my front lower arms after the service, he said that the bolts can snap or something can happen when replacing which would be expensive. Possibly £1400 to replace front aand rear if not straight forward.

As far as the conversion, I was hoping someone would advise on ease, difference, cost etc. ideally I don’t want to get a conversion it was just an idea as this kit popped up while searching

https://maltings4x4store.co.uk/ace-delete-...EmGzNGOvCM

Maybe the mechanic just want to be honest and prepare me for the worst case scenario?

I just wanted to know the likelihood of this been the case, has anyone had there rear fail or need replacing because of having the front done. Obviously I understand it’s dependant on condition of parts etc..

Im just a bit paranoid now it’s gonna be a lot more than just £2000 for the front, it’s booked in for the 8th of September for the mechanic to have a proper look.

Appreciate the response, thank you.

Post #649528 Fri Aug 22 2025 10:52pm
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Col



Member Since: 02 Sep 2012
Location: Hawkes Bay NZ
Posts: 5122

New Zealand 2013 Range Rover Sport Supercharged Autobiography Santorini Black

The pump /system has a operational pressure of up to 165bar = appx. 2300psi I don't think a pressure of 20psi to bleed the system is going to make a pipe leak or burst.

Cheers
Col

Post #649529 Fri Aug 22 2025 11:12pm
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Rick08



Member Since: 20 Jul 2025
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey

Right ok, that’s a lot more than 20psi lol.
Apologies for my ignorance, I haven’t had the car long, I had a Mini Cooper S that I did a few jobs on with the help of YouTube, but I’m not exactly mechanically minded.

Now you have said that, yes, obviously it would be able to withstand a lot more pressure than 20psi given its purpose.

It was the mechanic who said bleeding it could cause pipes, pump or rear to fail. This caused me to hyper focus on the pressure been the problem.

It sounds like he’s trying to have my pants down doesn’t it?

As RRSTDV8 said, getting me ready for the worst so he can hit me with the worst.

Appreciate the response Col, thank you

Post #649530 Sat Aug 23 2025 12:38am
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Col



Member Since: 02 Sep 2012
Location: Hawkes Bay NZ
Posts: 5122

New Zealand 2013 Range Rover Sport Supercharged Autobiography Santorini Black

Use this link from member "naks" it will take you to a site where you can download a workshop manual, even if you are not mechanically minded it may give you a bit of a heads up on things for the next time, and there will be a next time. Laughing

https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

Cheers
Col

Post #649531 Sat Aug 23 2025 1:45am
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