New pipe on last night , just need to get it into valve block and put 2 new studs in - if anyone attempts this be very careful when removing the 2 nuts that hold the valve cover onto the block as one of my studs snapped , luckily I could get some grips on it and twist it out - otherwise you need to drill the stud out the valve block.

Pretty easy job to be far hardest part is trying to get the plastic trim off that covers the pipes if the nuts are seized on as the plastic cover doesn't drop down enough to get a ratchet and spanners in when tightening the compression joint so space is tight if your not using a ramp- here is the ebay link I used;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267039668354?ch...gLTc_D_BwE

Guy is a Land Rover nut/mechanic who came up with the pipe , very very helpful and helped me over whats app also. Can highly recommend.

Couple photos of the studs to be careful of on the cover .
PS forgot to add going to paint the pipes with some outdoor metal paint to give them extra protection.

UPDATE...

Had the red and yellow BONG of doom coming on since swapping the pipe over, had 2 solid days of driving with no errors, I have checked the new pipe and compression joints, and found no leaks - fluid is topped upto to max.
Ive read codes Im getting;
C1B11
C1119
Both hydraulic pressure related which makes me believe there is air in the system due to the previous leak/cutting in the new pipe etc.

Is there a reset/easy bleed procedure I can follow?

From reading the workshop manual any drop in pressure by the sensor will basically shut the ACE pump/valve block down so it doesn't become damaged (hence why the drive program turns off) and you get the red triangle.

So found the bleed nuts on either side of the rear ace bar - Tried a 9mm spanner on but just seems to be slipping, 8 and 10MM also no good - anyone tried to bleed the ace bar this way before, pic below.

Click image to enlarge