This thing is really testing my patience now!!!!

Just fitted new compressor on my L320 lovely, ride height is alot better but now I have a leaking from the rear of the ACE valve block for f@#k sake I've been on the web for the last few days getting an idea of what's involved.

It's only just started don't know if the lower ride height increased pressure in the ACE system and found a week spot in the seals or it's just the case of one thing after another with this thing really getting fed up now.

The rear arb and pipes were replaced by previous owner in 2022 the pipes are in good condition very little corrosion ive cleaned all the residue from around the plate/clamp area and it is weeping from underneath it and pipes have no corrosion as they enter the valve.

I really can't afford or justify taking it to a garage £000's unless I really have to I've bought some fluid to top up the reservoir for now it's in-between min and max currently.

I have a few of questions that I really can't see the answer to on the web, I'm quite surprised the lack of videos out there on this as it does seem a common failure, I have come across the machined valves with flexi outlets this will probably be my last resort if I cant fix the leak but it's still £700 so that's going to be getting onto £1200 in the past month ouch, and i need new tyres.

1. I read about people pulling fuses and locking the system that throws a fault on the dash can I do this to stop the leak until I have time to fix it will this loop the system and keep the valve dry.(my daughter is getting a new car very soon so I can buy her 1.0 c3 whoopie and drive that if it ends up being a disaster).

2. Are the collet easy to remove if the leak is from them.

3. Is there enough flex in the pipes if I take them out of the chassis clamp to pull them from the valve block. (I was going to cut the pipes and connect with hydaulic couplers but as they are newish would rather leave them alone)

4. If I have to remove the seals I have seen instructions about using a 10mm bolt can anyone comment on this i was thinking about this and a small slide hammer with a vice grip attachment?

I really appreciate your help.

I'm not getting too excited but I did the plate up extra tight yesterday and today it has seemed to have stopped leaking all dry i hope so anyway.

The filter is due a change but I'm not going to go anywhere near it for now.

So the leak is back from the rear ace valve seals can anyone answer my first post in regards to pulling the pipes from the block.

Its probably a new or 2nd hand Ace unit, unless you change it yourself its gonna be expensive.
My ace unit on my 06 supercharged has been leaking for months, will be changing it for a good 2nd hand unit soon.
Thats the problem with these older wagons now, unless you work on them yourself, its just not financially viable.

Thanks for the reply yeah I'll be doing the work myself always done work on my cars don't see the point in paying hundreds of pounds for someone else to do work that can be done by a competent person.

As above I'm going to attempt the seal and collet replacement first I've got the noddy car on the drive if it fails but I'd rather try and spend £100 ish instead of £600.

As you said they are expensive to maintain nowadays and I'm guessing people who have done the seals in the past have moved on from this forum.

Im going to order the hydraulic couplers just incase I can't back the pipes out of the valve and have to cut them

Ok so attempted to fit new seals today but didn't work its not dripping anymore but its still weeping, it looks like whoever fitted the new pipes did replace the seals but didn't take any care in the process and there is a lot of scoring in the block.

Here's some images they might help someone but for me it looks like im going to be getting a secondhand block to get the threading mod done.

The blocks are horrendous for corrosion in by the seals

Not that it helps now, but if there not leaking, don't touch them

I am in the same position as you
Have new front pipes.
But could not remove old pipes from valve block.
Bought used block from Gentlemen of salvage ( highly reccomend)
Along with good rear pipes.
Resealed valve block
Now using old collets on rear pipes.
Cutting rear pipes and joining with 3000 psi coulpings.
Cutting new front pipes so no body mount removal.
300 psi couplers again.
Best of luck

As per a few comments flying around this among many things was a major flaw by JLR R&D, for an all terrain vehicle with a major suspension component being fitted to the chassis with steel pipes makes me think it was made to fail.

I can just imagine them in the board room ok so we want you to design a new vehicle but we don't want it to last more that 10 years without major repairs so the customer buys a newer model.

LET THE FUN BEGIN!!!