MHSPORT08 wrote:

Vehicle dynamics M (this is a code C1A00-88 )

Quote:

C1A00-88 Control module - bus
off

CAN bus circuit fault

Using the manufacturer approved
diagnostic system, carry out the CAN
network integrity test. Refer to the
electrical circuit diagrams and check the
CAN bus circuit to the ABS module for
circuit short to power, short to ground,
open circuit or high resistance

Thanks for the Can Bus data info, seems a bit strange but I’ll try and get a more powerful reader on the car to see if anything can be found

A few updates.

Sorted out the leaking air tank and checked the connections for leaks, none found and the pump now runs and tops off the tank and switches off very quickly. The rear also really raises fast but the front is slow. On a drive the suspension light still comes on and sometimes it will dump all the air, if you switch it off and restart it will pump up instantly and the fault light "might" stay off.... I'll take that as positive progress


I put the car into a local chap who has access to the proper Range Rover diag and he noticed the front valve block and is showing in a fault state (this doesn’t show on my reader) so we are currently waiting to swap the front valve block.

Although the car is listing on one side slightly he said the calibrations are all good and has this this issue in the past.

He also advised the car is giving a fault code for the pump but that maybe a red herring as the pump was replaced late last year and appears to be functioning well.



More soon

Might be worth changing the EAS relay - if the pump was replaced but the relay left, it has been known to throw an error (no idea why). 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Good point there.

I’ve checked and all the relays in there are a greyish colour and look original.

What replacement part do you recommend and also are those in that block swappable so I could move them about to see if there’s any improvement ?


Cheers

I ordered a compressor relay and its arrived but some more things have sprung up since.


The pump has now stopped working, no noise at all. I checked the fuses in the engine bay panel and the small std one and larger strange square are both good and also swapped relays and still nothing.

Bearing in mind I have a receipt for a new pump from Sep last year I thought I would remove it and see what we have and it looks new and seems good quality with Dunlop sticker on it


I connected 12v directly to it and its working no problem at all with great output. I have changed the desicant as a matter of course.

I'm now wondering if what we have here is either a bad connector in the 12v supply from the engine bay, a bad ground or perhaps the ride level control unit is faulty.


Some more testing is needed but i'll refit the pump, swap the front valve block and then trace out the wiring for the pump.

I had the same fault and it was a blocked filter on the exhaust side.
Try fitting it back but do not reconnect the 3 pipes on the rear end of the compressor.
Mine was a hitachi compressor.
The filter is mounted ontop of the N /S chassis rail in front of the spare wheel

Great thanks for that tip.

I have a compressor and will blow the air intake and exhaust plastic pipes through to make sure they are clear

Do you know where those pipes feed from and to as they disappear up onto the N/S chassis rail

The fresh air feed comes from the left hand side in the load compartment and has a filter on the top.
The flow and return from the filter unit mounted on the chassis.
There on back order from land rover.
Gentlemen of salvage have some thats where mine replacment unit came from.
Highly reccomend them

Thanks for those tips on the air pump feeds.

I checked the pump feed and exhaust pipes and they did seem a little restricted so have blown them through

Took the air pump apart and found lots of dust inside it, cleaned out with elec contact cleaner (brushes look good) and also fitted a new piston seal as the old one was worn already. Tested on the bench and it pumps to 250psi.

Changed out the front valve block and put the pump on, gallery pressure is very good and pump runs perhaps 30 seconds and switches off, car raises and lowers instantly front and rear and I thought we had cracked it BUT on the test drive we had the dreaded dong and red suspension light and it dumped all the air.

On the diagnostics we now have an intermittent front right height sensor and I suspect the wiring is duff or broken (sensor is new) on that one so new plug ordered and I'll get out there with the soldering iron. Not looking forward to it as the access looks terrible around the chassis rail.

Anyone fixed the wiring on theirs for the height sensor plug wires?

Ok I think we are there.

I believe my car does not like the aftermarket height sensors (lesson learnt). I checked the wiring to the front right sensor and didn’t find an issue so I swapped that sensor back to the one which I removed and then fitted a used sensor to the replace the faulty front left one and the car is now happy. I’ve driven perhaps 150 miles with no issue.

The height on each corner still needs calibration and it’s not completely level but is reasonably close enough with no freaking out, red suspension light and dumping of the air.

Next jobs will be ace fluid and filter, front diff and gearbox fluid as it’s a little clunky when cold.

Small update, had the suspension height calibrated

Car now sits level and drives much better, driven perhaps 500 miles.

More jobs needed no doubt but as required and for now she's been put to work

Done about 2k now and suspension seems good but it went into limp mode the other day on the motor way.

I cleared the faults and its ok again, power is good but the fault seems to be with the map sensor so I assume here it’s boost pressure. No hoses are split and the turbos seem to be working so this initially leads me to think it’s one of the rocker covers which are leaking oil and perhaps there’s a crack which is bleeding pressure away? Seems fine when cold and more to be after it’s driven for say 30mins

I’ll keep clearing the fault and see how we go.

Fitted some mud flaps which were under £20 for the set