Morning, following on from my intro post in the welcome thread, the recently purchased 2009 RRS is/was a piece of ....so as soon as it got home i put it in the garage and did the cam belt on it (no evidence of dealers having done it at any point up to 105K miles and it's now at 160K) and changed every filter i can find, including being half way through the 'metal gearbox pan with separate filter' conversion.

My first question on this is: are there any tricks to getting the (T40) bolts out or the M6's back in - mainly under the forward cross member? (Why would they have designed something right in the way??? crazy!). I've used various 1/4" bits cut to various lengths but there has to be an easier way otherwise i have no chance of getting a torque wrench on it. Would appreciate any pics of hacks people have used.

Second question: any tricks for cleaning the EGR gunk from the intake manifold? have seen the NaOH (draino) trick on youtube but didn't work great for me.

Finally I need to find a good writeup to replace the rear outer CV boot (just searched on here and couldn't find much) - if i can't find one elsewhere i'll try to do one myself and post here.

Appreciate any help you provide.

The gearbox fits many manufactures and isn't designed to be serviced in situ, or serviced at all!
I have had the megatronics unit out, and don't recall any issues. I think bolt lengths are different.

Regarding cleaning the inlet manifold internals. Did you watch the Germans cleaning it?
Personally I wouldn't worry. Or you can bin them and fit metal items from Ebay or Aliexpress

Thanks Andy. Will check the bolt lengths but think the replacements are all the same M6's - have now checked and all the same. Bolts going back in were much easier than the T40's coming out - got a torque wrench on most of them except those behind the cross members.

Next problem i've got is how to fill the gearbox while the car is flat - don't think i can fit under when it's on it's wheels and don't have 4 ramps (yet)...any suggestions welcome.

Car in high suspension. Axel stands under it.

If you have side steps it’s a pain though.

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See end of video

The cross member is supposed to be taken off for some of the access requirements around the transmission, that's why it's in the way. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Thanks but not touching/removing anything i don't have to on this thing - likely to break it or me.

Thanks again Andy - no idea how i didn't find that video of my fellow countryman...good video though torque specs aren't quite right.

Workshop manual here if you're going to be doing stuff yourself on your RRS: https://www.mediafire.com/file/yunzrqm47py4pww/RRSL320WSM2006.pdf 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

@Andy - thanks again - good tip re the access height - not something i've had before in road-going audi's.

I got about 6.5L of fluid in it (about 5.5L came out) and gears seem to be all there - will road test in a few days and re-check the levels in case i've got air in the system. BTW, this is all to see if it will solve a hunting issue when cruising at 2k revs....we'll see else it may be more sinister.

In the interest of trying to give back, those parents out there that may have a Braun (or similar) infrared thermometer for their kids, set it to 'water temp' and it works brilliantly on the metal pan of the gearbox - i could take temps at various points to ensure it was c. 35deg.c

@RRSTDV8 - thank you so much - have been wondering where everyone got their torque specs from - that will be a real lifesaver.

If doesn't, purchase 2 tubes of Dr. Tranny or shudder guard additive.