Had ACE pipes replaced body had to be lifted, after driving around all seemed good, then some minor problems accured like windscreen washer not working was washer pump nipple snapped so no problem fixed.

The problem I have and only started after the ACE replacement, drives great but problem seemed to happen same place as I was going daily to a shop with a slight incline parking and when I get back in vehicle reverse feels jumpy and when I drive off come to first traffic lights it starts bouncing up and down drive off and settles down at next stop. I went to a local mechanic he said gearbox oil need changing which was done with all filters and engine oil. He said I need heater plugs as it's rough starting, i left thinking all be ok, NO as I called up at same shop and did the same again things I noticed since ACE replaced body lifted my vehicle started up beautiful, I noticed to stop the bouncing is while foot on brake is slightly touch the accelerator.

Could there be a pipe not fitted properly or placing body back on chassis upset the rev settings.

Update: I started it this morning and chugged and smoke from back and first time ever it stalled, it seems to be not ticking over properly, I went 10 mile and thought warmed up be smooth but no it's still hesitate,.

I have no idea about your issue but when my ACE pipes needed changing I didn’t lift the body, I bought some 3500bar couplers from the local agriculture machinery supplier and cut the pipes and fitted them that way. Some have managed to fit them without even cutting them but I didn’t have enough room.

It cost £200 for the pipes and £12 for couplers I think it was.
 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

What pressure do the ARC hoses run at?

Do they corrode and then leak?

TC

I think max operating pressure is 350bar. I only went for 3500bar as they were stainless and 20p each dearer.

My pipes corroded around the rubber mount, obviously the protective finish rubbed off under the rubber and then water got in and rotted the pipe. If one goes again I’ll just replace the damaged section although I now try and keep it all clean and try and cover the rubber mount with a dose of Vaseline. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Brit Plumber wrote:

I have no idea about your issue but when my ACE pipes needed changing I didn’t lift the body, I bought some 3500bar couplers from the local agriculture machinery supplier and cut the pipes and fitted them that way. Some have managed to fit them without even cutting them but I didn’t have enough room.

It cost £200 for the pipes and £12 for couplers I think it was.

£800 isn’t as bad as I was expecting, I would have guessed at over £1000 so that’s not to bad.

Regarding your issue, can you take it back to the garage? It could be fuel starvation or maybe a poor earth? 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I actually think your right Brit Plumber, today car started ok went and bought diesel cleaner and maf cleaner done both and tonight started perfect and nice drive home no problems at traffic stops then last turn let the power off and stalled in the road to oncoming traffic, it was scary as when it stalled steering locked and Bering wrong way.

Hi all, update incase anyone else gets a similar situation, mine was the fuel pump, he got a second one and running smoothly once again.

Wow,that looked a bit excessive for the pipe replacement,i did mine laying under it in a day.
Granted,it was a bit awkward

I'm not sure why but I think it was impossible to access as leaks was under drivers door going through chassis.

ACE replacement pipes + labour. £800
Gearbox kit replacement and engine oil and filters + labour £350
Fuel pump +labour £700

MOT £30 PASSED YIPPPPPEEEEE.

Brit Plumber wrote:

I have no idea about your issue but when my ACE pipes needed changing I didn’t lift the body, I bought some 3500bar couplers from the local agriculture machinery supplier and cut the pipes and fitted them that way. Some have managed to fit them without even cutting them but I didn’t have enough room.

It cost £200 for the pipes and £12 for couplers I think it was.

Without the engine running, any pressure will dissipate in no time. If the car isn’t moving then the fluid under pressure is returned to the reservoir. The valve block only opens to allow pressure to the appropriate roll bar if the roll sensor commands it. I made a set up to bleed the system but most don’t bother and I found only a small amount of air bled off after I’d driven it for a few days anyway.

I think these compression joints worked really well for me because the pipes were new. Older pipes with corrosion would likely not seal well at all. If you can, replace the whole lot. In the long run I think you will save yourself a lot of pain. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Sorry to reactivate this thread, but those couplings look neat, and no doubt saved a load of money.

My fronts are on the way, not leaking yet but won't be long. So you bought genuine new ACE pipes then neatly cut at that spot, to enable the installation, then just reconnected?

Cheers

Yes that’s correct, I could have probably just cut out the bad section of pipe and fitted 2 couplers and a new section, but it thought it would only be a matter of time before the next section failed, so I replaced them all with genuine pipes and just cut where I wanted each coupler. You can see I cut the pipes in a way to off set each one (to give space for the spanners) and align them in a tidy fashion, it’s what Land Rover should have done really. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph