My car was 7 years old when I did my pipes and they came out of the block with no issues. It could be worth having one on standby that you can return if not required (or the garage can). 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Good shout, I'll mention it to them

Sorry to re-invigorate the post from June.

I am just about to replace my front ACE pipes due to corrosion causing a leak in the wheel arch where the pipes tuck under to head to the ARB.

Just wanted to check, has anyone done this without lifting the chassis in any way? Having looked at the job and the pipes, it looks fiddly but seems I can fit the pipes through the gap between the front outrigger and the body, but interested to know if anyone else has done this.

I see the posts from Britplumber on cutting the pipes and using compression joints. This also seems a good idea which I am happy to do if I need to.

Currently everything is soaking in penetrating oil to make disassembly as easy as possible.

Depending on the year, I believe some vehicles have an outrigger you can remove. Mine being 2012 was fixed. Some have managed to work the pipes over the outrigger through the gap but I didn’t have the space, even after disassembling the new pipes assembly to individual pipes, removing the body bolt, loosening the body mounts and lifting the body. So I went down the route of stainless compression joints. I just made sure I numbered each end of the pipe so each half would match the correct other half. I also cleaned each pipe out after cutting to remove any swarf.

Another bit of advice before you start, but some of the rubber bracket bolts as I had to cut both of the ones in the wheel arch as they were too far gone to remove. Also check you have the correct size Torx bit for the ARB unions. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Cheers

Alas no removable outrigger. I got all the old front pipes off today but the ends are locked solid in the valve block. I even had the snap-on trim popper tool under the pipe flanges but no joy, broke the trim popper!!

I think given I am in no rush, another valve block and rear pipes will be the deal. I am not going to lift the body and drop all of the suspension off, so I think the compression joints are a good idea and I will go for those. I have a good source of quality compression joints rated way over the ACE pressure.

I must admit that LR have surpassed themselves with the complexity of the pipework. The high pressure feed from the pump goes under the chassis from the OS wheel arch, across the front of the engine bay on various brackets that are tough to access, then round the sump and up to the ACE pump, with the banjo bolt tight against the intercooler/turbo pipework. I was sitting in the wheel arch scratching my head thinking 'why did they not just run it straight to the pump.

Anyway, I will fight the valve block tomorrow and then while I am waiting for parts to arrive, full filter and fluid service, good cleanup and wash, and head unit out to fix the broken buttons.

Actually, with some time on my hands today, I decided I would lift the body on one side per other posts here.

5 body mounts undone on the offside. Not complicated at all except the one in front of the rear wheel arch seemed seized. Very worried about snapping it, and my torque gun wouldn't touch it. Eventually took the risk with a breaker bar and gentle easing backwards and forwards and it was fine. Front most one had the oil cooler in the way and the 3 outer 10mm bolts were all seized, but snapped them all, drilled out and re-tapped so sorted.

Raised the whole offside on trolly jacks, and placed wood blocks and axle stands under the offside sill, then set two more axle stands with an inch or so gap under the chassis then lowered the chassis onto them with the trolley jacks. Worked a treat.

A few other things that I learned as I went (and the workshop manual helped.

- Taking the air box out makes it much easier to get the reservoir pipe off!
- The high pressure hose goes under the front of the engine, mounts on a plate on the NS corner, and goes under the sump round the back to join the pump. By the plate on the corner there is a quick release join but it seems an absolute to release with not much room. I ended up taking off the whole pipe so I could get it on the bench and do it. The tool that worked to release it was actually a plastic brake hose clamp tool. Seems to have jaws the right thickness that when you pull the pipe and compress the brake clamp behind the rubber cover on the release sleeve, it popped apart. I had to re-install the pump end of the pipe which is fiddly, but putting the pipes back on will be much easier with this done.

Pipes were stuck in the valve block, so I cut them at about 8 inches, bent a right angle in them by the valve block clamp, soaked in penetrating oil for 24hrs, then gently rotated them until they slide out.

Used a mirror and torch to check the holes into the valve block, and they look clean and intact. I am in two minds about a new valve block, so I will see how it reassembles and if it goes together OK, leaking will be the decider (yes, might have to remove it again, but much easier second time round).

So the car is sat on axle stands with an inch or so gap between body and chassis on the OS, awaiting the pipes and fittings to turn up. I was hoping for a supplier with a fast delivery but no-one seemed to have stock they could dispatch immediately. In the meantime, oil, filter, fuel filter etc, and a good clean.

The body thing was far easier than I though and I am doing this in my yard on the ground.

A bit more research today. I had stupidly thought that new valve block seals were only available as part of a new valve block, but they are available separately if a little expensive.

Ordered a set and will remove the old ones tomorrow and properly inspect the holes.

If corroded I’ll have to go with a spare valve block I now have.

Looks like it’ll be back together next weekend

I did not find it easy getting the old seals out! Had the valve block in situ as the rear pipes are OK, but decided in the end to take the whole thing to bits.

Sadly, I cannot reach the final clamp holding the rear flexibles to the chassis before they go down under the ARB. Gave up at that point to have a think about how best to proceed.

Anyone here done their rear pipes? I was wondering if it is possible to access the 8mm bolt on that final clip with a long extension going over the cross member at the front of the spare wheel space (that is how I got the torx bolt on the inner most pipe to the ARB ram).

If I can get those pipes out, then I can have the block on the bench, strip it, clean it properly, and get the new seals in with new front and back pipes. If not, then I guess I could do the same but cut the back pipes and do the compression joint thing.

Any experience here on this?

Thanks in advance

i saw them the other day I think, i only saw them because the fuel tank was dropped though

Funny you say that. I was looking at the fuel tank and thinking it might be easier to drop it.

I have time so it might happen. I must admit I am thinking I would prefer to get new pipes in if possible.

When I bought the car the other week, it was MOTed until end Nov. I popped it in for an MOT to find out exactly this kind of stuff, and it only failed on the ACE pipes. I will have missed my 10 day slot on the fixing of issues by the time the new pipes arrive, so no rush with getting it done properly.

There is also a lot of surface corrosion under the car on chassis and components, heat shields dropping off etc, so actually, dropping the tank down is a good excuse to clean and give it some new protection, and sort a few other things out.

id say just remember to remove fuel relay. also if youve dropped tank see if your filter is in it. if so may as well replace it while your there.

edit: btw i have the specific instructions if you need them

Undo the 10mm nut holding that bracket to the chassis

We usually chisel it off and put a new nut on, as they can be quite corroded

And be aware, when you extract the seals from the valve block, the sealing surface will be quite corroded and may not seal again, despite new seals...

Thanks Disco_Mikey

How did you get access to the nut (apologies I thought it was 8mm - must be badly corroded!!!). I only have the body undone on the OS and lifted about an inch or so about the mounts. I can just about see the clamp in question, but can't get a socket or cold chisel on it. Is there something I am missing?

Thanks for the info about the corrosion in the pipe holes. I am worried about that and want to avoid getting a new valve block.

Thanks again

Don't touch the clamp, undo the bracket that the clamp is bolted to

I used to do it your way. This way is much easier

Makes sense.

I need to get another look at it. Assuming it is bolted to the front of the cross member close to the back edge of the fuel tank