I have to say that the xenons on my "original" TDV8 were better than the xenons on my "facelift" SDV6. They were adaptive, which was nice, but importantly they had a better beam shape and projection on both dip and main beams. The newer lights are definitely a step down. I remember people going from L320 to L494 said the L494's lights weren't as good as the L320's. I would hope the new super-duper LED matrix jobbies are really good - they cost plenty! 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Pufftmw, just wondering which LEDs you're using for your main beam? I've been thinking about swapping out my current ones for either Xenons or LEDs.

My only worry is how/where the ballast for the Xenons would fit in the headlamp so was thinking LEDs would be better. 2006 RRS HSE 2.7 TDV6 (The Baby one as I keep being told)
1999 Discovery 4.0 V8 (Gone but not forgotten)
1997 Range Rover 3.5 V8 (Long gone now)
1966 Series II SWB with RR 3.5 V8 (Never finished, now sold)

Main beam is not Xenon, only dipped is. I just found the most powerful LEDs that would fit on eBay. If you do a search on here, there's a thread all about LEDs on which there should be a link.

Thanks for the quick reply, Evilbay here I come  2006 RRS HSE 2.7 TDV6 (The Baby one as I keep being told)
1999 Discovery 4.0 V8 (Gone but not forgotten)
1997 Range Rover 3.5 V8 (Long gone now)
1966 Series II SWB with RR 3.5 V8 (Never finished, now sold)

Pufftmw wrote:

Main beam is not Xenon, only dipped is. I just found the most powerful LEDs that would fit on eBay. If you do a search on here, there's a thread all about LEDs on which there should be a link.

In the end i went for a cheap bar that had fittings that can be positioned at any point in a track machined into the housing; the majority of others have fixings at the end which reduces options for mounting locations.

Two stainless-steel rivnuts into the bumper (retaining enough space to remove the grille and not projecting over the front of the bumper). I just need to centralise it(i.e., with a tape-measure).

Wiring joined with crimp connectors, heat-shrink and self-amalgating tape with the joint fixed under the slam-panel. The relay just taps into that for the additional driving-lights.

Contrary to my expectations, it doesn't bounce about a lot. Reasonably subtle and doesn't reduce the headroom for car-parks, etc.,

Does the job. Time will tell whether it really is IP67.

I just bought a pair of PIAA RF18 light bars (driving beam) - amazing light output. They are built like the proverbial brick s*****e (2.1kg each).

They can be bolted together (90cm wide).

I just need to work out how to fit them under the bumper. It may require some reinforcement as they are so heavy.

Going from full-beam and LED lightbar (off-road, obviously ) to 'only' dipped-beam is a massive difference and it takes a little while for my eyes to adapt to the dark - it could actually be a little bit dangerous.

Can't you use them on road legally in the UK.

When I had a "course" run by an Essex police driving instructor for my club, one of the questions was additional lights (130W Cibies ) and the reply was "as long as not used to dazzle/blind other road users" and not on dipped beam. I would imagine they come under the same heading. They might not be E marked, which is another thing.

Hugh - we should meet up and have a "light off" at some point in the autumn!

^^^ My photons are better than your photons.