Quote:

tipped

Quote:

take the body off

NO

Paddi wrote:

'57 TDV8 HSE in Hertfordshire? Must help you then

Confusingly people often refer to the Dynamic Response system as 'ARC' (Active Roll Control).

Dynamic response is the patented system which uses hydraulically operated actuators on the anti-roll bars front and rear to counteract body roll when cornering.

In your post you said it is the ARC 'pipe' that needs replacing so possibly it is just part of the hydraulic system that is leaking and needs to be replaced but usually it is one of the actuators. Check with your garage which it is. Can you see any drops of fluid under the car where it is usually parked?

The actuators are notorious for developing leaks and they are not repairable so have to be replaced. They are expensive at around �900 each and if it is the rear one the body has to be partially lifted from the chassis to fit it so quite a bit of labour. Plus, the system then has to be bled and recalibrated which is more work.

You could try just topping up the Dynamic response system reservoir with the correct fluid (only obtainable from Land Rover) and see if the red warning light goes out. If it is only a slight leak that might be a temporary fix. However; while the light is on - your body roll when cornering might be excessive and lead to loss of control so be careful driving!

If you are anywhere near Houghton Regis in Bedford give Bill at Autoland (01582 866680) a call and get them to give you a second opinion maybe?

Mine is leaking from the top of this pipe and was wondering if the pipe can be replaced, it’s on the front drivers side on my2010

See your other thread. 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Just been told i could have a possible bill of around £4000 to fix my car! I have a leak from a pipe going to the front ARC ACTUATOR ..location is shown in the attached photo. If there are problems replacing the pipes it can lead to other components in the system requiring replacement.
Apparently the pipes come as a kit and lead from the module to the actuator. I know this could lead to problems with the Module when trying to get the pipes out..My question is, there are pipe breaks (in-line connectors shown in photo) downstream of the module going to the actuator.. surely they are there to make it possible to replace the actuator supply pipes leading to the actuator without having to disturb the pipes going into the module?
I don't get why the pipes going into the module are being disturbed with it highly likely it will damage the module as well?

Where’s that picture from? There are no couplers where they are shown, if you look at my photos you will see the couplers I fitted are in the same place (did they like my idea??).

So your existing pipes do not have those couplers. You could try to cut there and instal a new pipe, but they could be that corroded that they won’t seal.

Removing from the block isn’t to bad if you have some patience and a bit of penetrating oil. I popped of the plastic collars and used a trim pry tool to lever between the block and the swollen part of the pipe. They popped out quite easily.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/neilsen-CT2370-Do...&psc=1

This is what i did to prevent lifting the body.
 2019 5.0 SC SVA (Current)
2012 5.0 SC AB. Sadly written off by a campervan
23 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph