Hi i have a 2010 rrs 3.6 tdv8 with dynamic response.
I had a leaking rear ace pipe and rear anti rollbar
Iv replaced them filled the system up car at normal height.
Then after 20 seconds of running it pulled the front right corner down or pulled the rear left up then burst a front pipe.
Got a hydraulic shop to make up a repair section and then it did exactly the same again.

Lower of the 4 pipes grouped in the right front wheel area.

Has anyone a suggestion on what to do?

Anyone any ideas please

Are you saying the ARB actually pressurised and pulled one corner down?

At rest, there should be no pressure at either ARB. The pump should pump fluid to the block and back to the reservoir. Are you sure the rear pipes are connected to the correct locations? 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Rear pipes are connected correctly (they can only go one way when grouped together)
new pipes and bar.
And yeah its sat still in neutral at idle
Heights are all calibrated correctly

Only error it throws is low pressure when the lower pipe bursts the flexible section.

Does the bottom pipe run from the pump? I think it does.

At idle, the pump runs but the valve block is closed and the pressure is returned to the reservoir. If it’s the pump to block pipe that’s bursting, it suggests that you have a blockage and the fluid can’t return, however I’d expect a high pressure DTC.

So, the comment about a corner going up or down is interesting. At idle that should never happen as the valve block should be closed. For that to happen, a valve has to open which suggests a possible valve issue. Perhaps a seized valve?

I have a home made kit I used to open the valve block and bleed the ARBs, that would confirm if the valves were working. Did you bleed the ARBs? If not, that could possibly cause the ARB to rotate one way as it could have got pressure to one side only. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

2 lower pipes go to the actuator
Top pipe to reservoir
2nd pipe from top is feed from the pump

Edit: when looking in the wheelarch

At the valve block end, both top pipes go to the actuator
Innermost pipe is feed from pump

So at idle there should be no high pressure.

Is the valve block a simple left/right system?

Originally the rear right ace pipe was leaking constantly from the right hand side fitting onto the ram so both rears was changed but snapped bolts for the pipes on the arb

So would a stuck valve be a whole new valve block?

Can it be tested?

What operating pressures is the ace system subject too?

I did a part body lift to do the pipes and the seals can i do that again for front pipes?

Britplumber (I think) did a post where he changed the front pipes with the body in site using high pressure fittings. Otherwise I think it has to be lifted.

Darrenh wrote:

So at idle there should be no high pressure.

Is the valve block a simple left/right system?

Originally the rear right ace pipe was leaking constantly from the right hand side fitting onto the ram so both rears was changed but snapped bolts for the pipes on the arb

So would a stuck valve be a whole new valve block?

Can it be tested?

What operating pressures is the ace system subject too?

I did a part body lift to do the pipes and the seals can i do that again for front pipes?

Found this;
https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic55087.html
Pics of Brit Plumbers work on p1

Brit Plumber wrote:

Are you saying the ARB actually pressurised and pulled one corner down?

At rest, there should be no pressure at either ARB. The pump should pump fluid to the block and back to the reservoir. Are you sure the rear pipes are connected to the correct locations?

Valve blocks off and clear.
Assume its the valves on top that control fluid direction?[/img]

Bertbuckie wrote:

Brit Plumber wrote:

Are you saying the ARB actually pressurised and pulled one corner down?

At rest, there should be no pressure at either ARB. The pump should pump fluid to the block and back to the reservoir. Are you sure the rear pipes are connected to the correct locations?

Sorry to jump on, but mine was idling the other day and I leant on the front passenger side of the bonnet, and mine dropped. Maybe they do move at idle?

Same mate. I dont know why but it did. I was bumping it a bit, but still idle. Heard a creak so lent on and pushed.
Possibly nothing to do with your issue, just thought I would mention it as others say its not on at idle.