Great progress and updates, keep them coming  2006 2.7 TDV6 HSE in Cairns Blue.

I'll second that ... this is a brilliant refurb thread - I regret not doing this on my 2007 TDV6 - usual issues resolved, such as ABS sensor wire causing the dashboard to xmas tree (the reason why my brother lost patience and gave me the car) ....

... hadn't thought of re-trimming the A post covers in leather, as also suffered from the spray glue 'bleed through'....

... need to refurb the wheels, as they have chunks out of them (do you just sand them down, or need to fill to build up? ... and with what?)

... just (hopefully) got rid of a pesky ' Engine fault' error which was putting the car into limp mode, with a clean up of the MAF(?) sensor (the one at the top of the engine), along with a lube of the turbo actuator (don't think mine needed that, but that's what people seemed to do) - this was the scenario where a long run under load (eg motorway hill) would cause the error to be thrown (seems to be familiar to people to tow caravans apparently).... a run from Faversham to Halifax and back on Thursday will be a good test.

.... next job is to sort out a C1119-xx error when turning left under certain conditions (I don't have IID, and my iCarSoft only reads 4 digits, not 6 (annoying)) - possible solution is to replace the valve block sensor under in the box under the driver's seat - a slightly speculative fix, but one of the cheaper 'solutions'.

... after that, it's going to be another look at the suspension / steering geometry - the car tramlines quite a lot, even though I've had it 4 wheel aligned (apparently), so could be cheapo tyres (Kormoran), and an annoying vibration when braking - hoping this is not warped discs, as I chucked on new brembos 12 months ago!

... think I'll do a 'feelgood' job next, and get my D pillars cleaned up

Glad some one finds this useful. Today's little jobs was replacing the rear wiper arm the original was in poor condition then I turned my attention to the lpg.
It works after I replaced the fuel return line but unknown to me there was a restrictor in the petrol return line to allow correct fuel pressure readings when running on lpg. I didn't know about this so it would stall out on switch over and throw the engine light on.
After some research and a little help from those on here iv fitted a 1.2mm restrictot into the return line.........success it switches happily between fuels and no stalling or engine light. Will give it a proper test drive at some point.

Turning to wheel refurb depending on how bad the digs are chemical metal is a great filler for alloy wheels followed by a light rub down I use a filler primer to build up a few layers before final rub down and respray.

Recovering the A pillars is also pretty simple it does transform the interior.

My hands almost healed so should be sorting the lower control are at some point.

Have had a proper test running on lpg and all is good it switches between fuels without issue. Iv had reason to run around in my L322 fullfat just recently m62 v8 engine on lpg absolutely the best car iv ever owned and driven sadly a victim of ulez expansion I can but hope it gets chucked out when it goes to court shortly.

I was planning on sorting out my offside lower control arm now my hand has healed up but iv just been informed there gonna operate on my left hand soonish so it's all on hold.......again.

Well it's been a while I had my operation on my right hand that went well then they did my left hand......no so good half my hand is numb they think it will recover but......

Anyways some unplanned repairs I suddenly had grinding noise when turning right. Jack up the offside and sure enuff a couple of mm play in the wheel bearing.
I have some in the garage so let's swop it out everything of course was seized so instead of an hour it took me 3hrs. The box was marked skf I was glad to open it and find a timken wheel bearing in the box.


All done pack up and off for a test drive...... still grinding let's jack up the nearside me it's completly gone the grinding is caused by the brake disc comming into contact with the ball joint the bearing was that bad.

Get the tools out everything seized 3 hours later it's done hardest part was getting the poxy brake disc off.



And here is one of the bearings not sure which it is think it's the offside.



The nearside new bearing is a cheap one let's see how they do.


Test drive done glad to report all is good I will have to wait until my hand is recovered before I do the lower arm.

Phew.

Eh up lrstaylor

It’s alWays the case when least you need a problem - here they come

Good job done

Finally got round to swopping out that off side lower control arm took it slow about an hour and a half plus tea breaks and getting the tools out and put away. Did it yesturday in the dry and sunshine but bloody 2 degrees.
Going in for tracking and alignment tomorrow steering wheel is at 20 to 2 instead of quarter to 3. Other than that steering is better no more steering wheel shake on the motorway today.

Still getting a creak so new drop link for the offside it is before I investigate further. It was creaking as I raised and lower the suspension with the jack so it's either the drop link or upper suspension arm.

Replaced the rear bumper as a decent undamaged or repaired item in the correct colour popped up on the bay, simple enuff job. Have to remove it again tomorrow to replace x2 faulty parking sensors.....Still could be worse.
Front anti roll bar bushes and D clamps and new arb drop links going on shortly. Will put to good use the proper tools purchased from a member on here recently who has left the fold.

Noticed the passenger carpet was wet quick inspection of the sunroof drain on that side showed the nipple corroded at the end behind the fake air vent in the normal place it was dripping water inboard.

After looking at the issue my fix was simple enuf
1. Remove the internal A pillar trim
2. Cut the existing drain tube about halfway up
3. Feed an 8mm ed plastic tube down inside the old tube.
4. Use a pick to fish it out of the original drain tube hole.
5. Connect the 2 cut half's of the original tubing together after pushing the other end of the 8mm plastic tube into the top original drain tube bit of silicon sealer just to be sure and a small jubile clip to secure it.

Job done about 15 mins no need to remove anything like the glove box, Lower panel or fuse box.

Bit of sealer over the original drain hole just to seal it up good n proper. Lifted the carpet and got the wet vac in there will leave it up for a couple of weeks until its all dry.

Time to upgrade the dash cam, iv had a decent front only dash cam forever but need a front and rear with the dog cage in the back iv no rear view at all when driving.

I'm a big fan of the wolf box dash cams g840s as it records both front/rear at the same time. Has amazing 1080p definition and like most switches to reversing camera when selecting reverse .

It's hard wired iv got it plugged into the cigarette lighter but will find a permanent live so its recording 24/7 it has a low battery monitor system built in so shouldn't drain the cars battery.

The night time vision on the rear camera is crystal clear even with car headlight blaring behind, got one of these in the wife's D3.

On a lightning deal at Amazon at the moment......thinking about it

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WOLFBOX-Rearview-...amp;SPES=1 2006 L320 4.2 Supercharged
2009 BMW X5 M-Sport - Gone
2007 L320 2.7TDV6 SE Buckingham Blue - Gone
2011 Jaguar XFS 3.0V6 Diesel - Gone
2009 (59) L320 Facelift 3.0TDV6 HSE White Wrap - Gone
2008 BMW X5 M-Sport - Gone
2005 Audi A6 3.2V6 Quattro S-Line - Gone

Honestly......do it !!!!!! 20 mins install including hooking up the reversing trigger wire to the reversing light.

Just to be able to see what's being you in the dark is worth it alone.

Time to sort out the front anti roll bar bushes and D clamps plus the drop links. Quick chat with my mate John and iv agreed to do some mild paint correction to his new ulez car and he is doing the bushes etc.
He confirmed my long term suspicion the old bushes were shagged out he could move the anti roll bar by hand once the drop links were off.







Bit of correction to the paint on his ulez car not a landy but still a V8

Was time to sort out my headlight lenses they were starting to go a bit yellow and patchy .
Half an hour later all done.

Nice work - what kit did you use? I've not done this job on the RRS yet, but have used the autoglym refurb kit before on a couple of other cars ..... a little bit pricey, but everything in the kit, and did a good job.