Thank you but Unfortunately relay is also ok, this really is driving me mad, do you think i could run a wire direct from battery to the switch ?
Anything else you can think of that could be causing this ?

You could.

This is how it should work.

Battery + to relay
Relay to large fuse 2
Fuse to the light switch in the car.

Relay coil contacts are ignition and ground


1. With the ignition on, does the relay click when inserted ?
2. If no, Check fuse 28 behind glovebox (ignition)

Remove relay. Turn ignition on.
2 pins of the relay socket should have power present. (one battery and one ignition)
1 pin should be ground
1 pin output to car switch

Should you not have an ignition at the relay (first check fuse 28 glovebox), but if you know what you are doing you could bridge out the relay. I.e connect the battery relay terminal to the output terminal (goes to fuse 2). But don't try that if you aren't sure.

Also if you know what you are doing, you could continuity check between the light switch wire inside and large fuse 2. This would save or prove if you need to run a new wire in

Thanks for your help mate, fuse 28 was also ok. I couldnt seem to find any issues. In the end i wired a wire that goes off with the ignition, and put in a 15 amp fuse just incase.

I appreciate the advise but seemed the easiest option.

For anyone else striggling wire up to the purple and brown behind the switch

Regards

Thanks for your help mate, fuse 28 was also ok. I couldnt seem to find any issues. In the end i wired a wire that goes off with the ignition, and put in a 15 amp fuse just incase.

I appreciate the advise but seemed the easiest option.

For anyone else striggling wire up to the purple and brown behind the switch

Regards