Hi chaps,

Looks like my battery is dead - tried to start it this morning and just a bunch of clicks and engine would not start.

The Exide EK950 is not available in ZA, can I use this one: https://battery24.co.za/shop/batteries/exide/exide-agm-658/ ?

or one of these?
https://www.twt.co.za/product/extreme-abso...t-agm-658/
https://battery24.co.za/shop/batteries/willard/willard-658/
https://battery24.co.za/shop/batteries/varta/varta-658agm-g14/

Thanks --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

Spec is fine just not sure on the fit but does look pretty close! if you can check dims on size should be fine, that said there is space in the battery box for it, just the cables are a bit like Mjölnir!

The exide is the OEM battery just rebranded LR on install, that said the spec exide offer is a little up from te oem spec when first installed by a few amps.

pm if you get stuck and ill see if i can find something in your neck of the woods chap If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

RRS Autobiography Indus
RR P38 HSE V8
RRS Supercharged Santorini
AMG CLK Rear Tyre Shredder

the varta one is the closest and known brand, not sure on the others but also the price is reflective im guessing, Id always go known brand with a battery, until some of the other are tired and tested, too many copies about that are never to be found again should you need to claim on the 5yrs warranty. If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

RRS Autobiography Indus
RR P38 HSE V8
RRS Supercharged Santorini
AMG CLK Rear Tyre Shredder

Yeah, thinking the Varta or the Exide are the ones to go for.

I'll pop down to the stealer tomorrow and see what they charge for the JLR-branded one.

I put the car on my Ctek yesterday, and this morning it's all green, so I make stick with this one a bit longer, and just keep it on the Ctek more often. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

Stealer will be just that grossly over prcied and I dont think they are JLR branded except when new in so i wouldnt waste your money the Exide is the OEM battery


https://www.desertcart.co.za/products/5395...-95-ah-017

Probably find it cheaper might be worth a look on Amazon may be If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

RRS Autobiography Indus
RR P38 HSE V8
RRS Supercharged Santorini
AMG CLK Rear Tyre Shredder

Darn it, I put the car on my Ctek on AGM Recon mode for 2 days, and it showed the battery as full.

But when I got in the car this morning, it still said Low Battery.

Went for a 2-hour highway drive, and it still says Low Battery, even though the voltage is 12.6V.

So, it's kaput then? :  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

12.6v is about 95% charged. Stick it back on your ctek at normal charging, not recon
I used to get Low battery start car message from stop/start. Auto electrician found a parasitic drain.

 Range Rover Sport: Mercedes S63 AMG Coupe: 992 Porsche Carrera 4S

thanks, but this is the original battery (2015), so 7 years is about right to be needed a new one. --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

I just replaced mine as most batts have a 5yr warranty and LR's you get about 3yrs its also worth looking at the the little battery too unless it a capacitor.

Sometime I think if the OBD port is used with a device that is connected to the ECU and isnt shut down or disconnected (rather than just unplugged) it can cause a residual drain (I read this somewhere) I use a Ctek on mine when not in use. it doesnt take long to drop the battery on a few short runs with lots of ac or heating on etc... the run time from the alternator is often not much to top back up what it took to start and run, but a good long trip should solve that. I d swap the battery out, the warning could just be the BMS though not registering that its been restored. If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

RRS Autobiography Indus
RR P38 HSE V8
RRS Supercharged Santorini
AMG CLK Rear Tyre Shredder

^ thanks, I thought as much about the BMS, so I plugged in my IID and cleared all faults.

That didn't work, so getting a Varta tomorrow and will DIY it.

Thanks for all your help 👍🏾😀 --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

is it the GAP IID as that has a dedicated BMS reset function built in? So the codes i dont think will make much difference. new battery is the best option to start with as its old and once they fall off they are hard to recover. Often if the lights were on and the battery has been flattened past 50% it can cause damage that even reconditioning canst fix so on an older battery its not worth bothering.

Mine is 2014 and I swapped the battery on it as lack of use during covid killed it. With all the Alarm and immobiliser and keyless sensors all using just a little bit of power over time, and then a few tailgate openings and some unlocking at night where the lights come on all can take their toll.

Chucking a new one in is easy DIY job and qualifies as man stuff soe can be rewarded with a beer too! Good luck any probs DM me If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

RRS Autobiography Indus
RR P38 HSE V8
RRS Supercharged Santorini
AMG CLK Rear Tyre Shredder

Oi vey, now I need a new back

Took me an hour, mostly to get that spare tyre out, but got the new battery in without too much trouble.

Before I did anything else, as soon as the new battery was in, I ran the BMS reset with my IID tool, and then plugged in my Ctek.

The new battery was at 12.1V, so clearly the BMS also tracks the actual charge of the battery, as there were no complaints from the car once the new one was in.

Thanks @pjbracer1 for your detailed instructions

now I need a spa day for my back to recover from all the heavy lifting  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8 HSE Dynamic



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

no worries chap a spa day sounds great! maybe somewhere like the Maldives would be ideal!

Lifting the battery in and out is kinda awkward as its all at arms length, but Id rather spend the money on a weekend away than let the dealer charge me £860 to do it! If a jobs worth doing, get a someone who knows what they are doing to do it!

RRS Autobiography Indus
RR P38 HSE V8
RRS Supercharged Santorini
AMG CLK Rear Tyre Shredder