Hi is there away of getting the wing mirrors on a 2008 RRS to fold in when the ignition is switched off and unfold when starting the car , I know you can make them dip when reversing just not sure if you can make them fold and unfold . Thanks lee

Can you fold them using the mirror switch? If not, you don’t have the power fold motets so you would need new mirrors or at least the motors. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

they can fold in by pressing the adjuster down (knob in center position)
but this is not automatic like modern cars

I've been thinking about this too. I'm thinking that all it will need is a trigger signal on the line from the wing mirror switch which is activated when the key fob is pressed.

it might be possible using a timed relay circuit, however I've still to figure out where to get the initial trigger feed from, but if and when I figure it out I'll let you know, assuming someone hasn't already done it and let us know how (fingers crossed) 2006 RRS HSE 2.7 TDV6 (The Baby one as I keep being told)
1999 Discovery 4.0 V8 (Gone but not forgotten)
1997 Range Rover 3.5 V8 (Long gone now)
1966 Series II SWB with RR 3.5 V8 (Never finished, now sold)

I've been toying with this idea too for my 2005 RRS.

You should be able to pick up the central locking driver signal to the driver's side motor unit in the door (BR,1.5D) and then run a wire up to the wing mirror fold signal cable (UB,0.5D) using a suitable diode to ensure the signal only goes from the central locking side to the mirror side and not the other way around.

Something like a 1N4001 or 1N5401 diode should be OK as the wing mirror fold cable should be a simple logic signal feeding back to the "Fold back module" (D197) rather than high-Amp motor line. Worth checking with a voltmeter to ensure both signals are both +12v for activation.

Of course the only drawback is that the mirrors don't actually know if the car is being locked or unlocked so if you manually fold them in and then lock the car, they will fold back out!

Not sure if anyone else has tried this or can see a problem with the above? (It's been years since I did my AS-Level electronics but I think the logic is right).

'tang.

** UPDATE ** Ok, I've thought about this more after some coffee and looking back at the wiring diagrams, you can see that the "switch-mirror" signal looks like a normally-open switch that pulls C0066-8 low when activated [need to check with the trusty voltmeter]. The central locking motor line C0441-7 is a reversible polarity drive with C0441-5 to the central locking motor so my above diode idea is a non-starter.

But, it's not all doom and gloom just yet - We should be able to use the motor lines C0441-5 and 7 with a rectifier bridge to create a +12v signal when the locking motor runs in either direction, then we need to invert that into a pull low signal and then something else to stop cross-leaking of the signals... more to follow unless my day job gets in the way...

Ptang,

Sounds like a plausible plan looking at the circuit diagram, the only issue might be that the central locking motors only run for a short time and I think, that the fold switch has to be kept closed until the mirrors are in the fully closed position.

Therefore i might be necessary to use the central locking line to trigger a a secondary circuit which is timed to allow the mirrors to fully close.

That said it might be possible to achieve the same using a timed relay in line which is triggered by the locking signal - there is a timed relay socket available from RS (see below) but it is not cheap, plus the cost of the relay and the relay need to be factored in.

However it wouldn't cost as much as retro fitting a control from a later model probably (if that even possible)

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/timer-relays/4594379/ 2006 RRS HSE 2.7 TDV6 (The Baby one as I keep being told)
1999 Discovery 4.0 V8 (Gone but not forgotten)
1997 Range Rover 3.5 V8 (Long gone now)
1966 Series II SWB with RR 3.5 V8 (Never finished, now sold)