Hey guys, since swapping my ace pipe I keep getting the yellow or red triangle - no leaks etc from new pipes, resevoir not dropping - from my understanding the valve block shuts off the safety valve around 40 seconds after engine start up to register if valve block is getting the correct pressure from the ACE pump - so I can only think the ACE pump is not working correctly.
Strangely after swapping the ACE pipes the car was fine for 2 days afterwards - no errors, triangles or leaks.

So now I'm not sure if the pump was weak before and now its just died? Trying to figure out if I should just pull the trigger and a buy a new pump?

PS When I had the leak the car wasn't driven and the pump didn't run dry - always had fluid in the system.

You could replace the pump but it could be a signal fault or reset needed.

Not sure if you have any diagnostic tools but I would start by trying to run an actuation test on the pump to see if you can hear and ideally measure voltage at the pump before deciding to replace.

Thanks Nick..
There is voltage at the pump but not sure how to run a actuation test or reset - I have a LR2 ICarSoft tool.

Belt is still running on the pump.

I am not sure with that type of scanner but pretty sure you can using an IID tool.

Failing that and if you are convinced the pump is at fault identify the power and earth going to the pump and supply 12V using another battery.

If it starts spinning / whirring you know it's not the pump if nothing then it is the pump. Some might suggest you put a 5A fuse inline in the feed from the battery but for a momentary test I would suggest you'd be fine.

Thanks Nick,
Ive just checked the parameters on my Carsoft tool and its showing 0nM on the pump load - Im guessing that means there's no rotational force on the pump?

Just took these