my2012
Power assistance seems to come and go at short intervals as if the pump is drawing air or the relief valve is bouncing open and shut.
Reservoir level is normal with no leaks or loss of fluid.
Doesn't seem to be speed related, although the effects are most obvious when manouvering.
These symptoms appeared suddenly during a short drive.
Any ideas??
Alan Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

Me again.
After reading various comments about the correct fluid, I sooked some out for a look.
Slightly dirty, but fairly sure it was originally the common red stuff!
Surely this stuff is fine except for extreme conditions?
Alan Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

doubt it would cause you an issue.

The lower steering UJ usually seizes and causes stiff steering

Is it even remotely accessible??
Alan Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

Yes. Fairly easy I believe.

Yes. Fairly easy I believe.

I take it you were joking, or maybe you meant relatively for an RRs?

This is the sort of nonsense that's been worrying me since I bought it. Most parts completely inaccessible.
If I'd been able to even get the bottom bolt out, then I could have moved the UJ to assess it and maybe even lubed it a bit, but the dopey bugg*rs have fitted a torx head making it almost impossible to get sufficient access.
I'm pretty capable, but this is ridiculus.
Need to find a garage that knows how to do this.
Alan Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

Steering column isn't a difficult job. About an hours work to remove and refit/replace

That's the benefit of experience I had to guess everything.
I still think you'd be doing well at an hour.
Took me an hour to get that heat shield off. Mine is the version in three pieces. Heath-Robinson came to mind.
The top bolt took 20mins at half a flat at a time and blind. Maybe a ratcheting spanner would speed things up.
Anyway, it's out. One part of the UJ is slightly stiffer. New one ordered.
I'm fairly sure the wheel didn't get turned out of position, but the wife was holding it in the best position for the bolts, so??
Any way to check without messing the clock spring?
Alan Series 3 109
Classic 2-door
101FC GS
Three P38 4.6L
RRS mk1 2012

Experience probably is the key

The heatshield doesn't have to come out, the top bolt is accessed from the engine bay

Currently trying to fit the UJ but the bottom bolt is not a torx its a 10mm which has rounded off, This UJ had been replaced twice around 8 years ago so the garage that fitted it in york didnt use torx maybe the 10mm were already there but surely you would replace them for torx to avoid this issue? Im now stuck with half the bolt out, Thing is when i tried to pull the UJ off it did pull up about an inch so its loose enough but it seems something is stopping it from coming off, I did remove the top bolt and drop the top section so it wasnt connected to steering, Does anyone know if the steering rack connection is a smooth shaft so i could force it off or is there a grove for the bolt to go through preventing it from pulling off? Im guesiing thats the case been a safety feature so the UJ dont just pop of the shaft while driving? Any help would be grateful of, Trying to find a diagram to show the steering bf rack end.

Managed to make the rack leak from this area Trying to remove the UJ, Does anyone know if this part of the rack can be repaired or if it can be tapped back in place once i manage to get the UJ off? Or is it a new rack aswell as a UJ now 😃


Just purchased off ebay the top 10mm nut and the correct torx bolt for the UJ bottom, It looks like the garage who fitted the last UJ for me used the top nut for the bottom instead of correct torx bolt, And looking at them im wondering if the the diameter is wider for the top one which might explain why this has not come out and has rounded off the head due to it been siezed?