I've read through this post: https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/post486827.html#486827, which has all my symptoms but no answers have helped me.

It started a couple of months ago (could have been longer but never noticed) after a full brake fluid flush. Everything went fine and the brakes felt really good but still one getting really hot.

I decided to strip down the calipers, cleaned, painted, replaced pistons and new caliper seal kits. Also cleaned all the sliding pins and regreased. And finally replaced the hoses as I heard they can collapse internally.

Still had the same problem, so I then replaced the EPB shoes, discs and pads using Bodsys brake bible and completed the EPB bedding in routine.

So after a complete overhaul of the rear brakes including EPB, discs, pads, hoses, calipers stripped and cleaned, new pistons and seals in I'm at a complete loss.

It was MOT'd in January and noted very slight play in the front wheel bearing but nothing on the rears.

Anyone have any ideas?

Not sure how to edit my post on the mobile site but....

Worth also knowing that the inside of the wheel has a lot of brake dust caked in there that accumulates immediately even straight after cleaning and on any short journey.

Seized EPB cable? 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

There seemed to be good play in the cable when I replaced the EPB shoes, and I can hear the actuator working. Is there a method I can check a seized cable for sure?

Just replace the callipers.

Sadly replacing pistons is no guarantee to fix as you have found.
There is a groove that accumulates dirt near the piston, which seams to cause it

Just reread and saw wheel, not drum. Sorry. I’d say seized caliper as @Andy K mentioned. Sometimes they can be rebuilt, sometimes they can’t. What rebuild kits did you use? I used FrenKit on my fronts and rears and they seem to be okay. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Been thinking more into what you said about EPB seizing and there may be something there. 12-18 months ago there was a period of time whereby releasing the parking brake it sometimes didn't fully disengage (even with the actuator sound). the wheel in question would stick and then on pulling away suddenly give way with a loud clunk. Naively i thought nothing of it at the time as there was no errors or warning lights (wishful thinking and just plain ignoring the obvious need for investigation).

Fast forward to my EPB shoe replacement yesterday and the old kit was wrecked. retaining pins and clips were shot and completely broken into bits.

Would it be worth pulling out the whole EPB on the troublesome side and doing a short drive to see if it heats up still?

The rebuild kit i used for the calipers was TRW, and they were completely cleaned out with rotary and hand wire brushes

As long as you don’t accidentally hit the EPB switch it may be worth the trouble of trying that. Just keep the cable tied away from anything moving. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

A caliper is ~£50 and doesn't take long to fit and bleed.

Now recall the amount of time and fun it is to remove the disc and shoes etc and then refit it all ! Up to you

When hot, wet you finger a dab it on the caliper top. If you burn your finger you know it's the caliper

Completely get your point but I'm reluctant to keep throwing money at it before knowing for sure. Especially when I've already done a complete overhaul already, assuming it's one thing or another.

Although you may have inadvertently helped with your reply in the fact that the caliper doesn't get hot, only the disc.

I'm wondering whether it's a seized cable as previously suggested - or maybe the module box has dead cogs?

Maybe something like this: https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/handbrake-cab...39161.html

Ok so I'm now going down the line of bad EPB cables or actuator based off these videos:

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL8juANt...TUDm-tQM2M

There's lots of points along the way that ring true with my situation. If I get a solution I'll be sure to post.

My feelings are my time is free, parts cost money. I’d rather spend a day diagnosing and troubleshooting than waste money on parts I don’t need. So I’d say diagnose it out and replace what’s in fact the problem. It’s always so easy to spend other people’s money on the internet. Sadly I get to see more of it in person where somebody said xyz is the problem and they replaced it at a high cost only to find out it’s something totally different and a cheap fix compared to the big money they spent on some random part. Like the guy who had his transmission rebuilt when he needed his alternator replaced. Yes, that really happened. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Last edited by NoExpert on Wed Mar 29 2023 10:03am. Edited 1 time in total

Yeah that's my line of thought too. I didn't mind the cost of caliper rebuild and new discs/pads/shoes because they're consumables anyway and will have needed doing at some point soon anyway.

Now I'm at the point where I really want to get to the bottom of the fault, here's my summary:

Fluid flush and bleed done
Caliper refurb and rebuild done
New discs and pads done
New EPB shoes, adjusted and bedded in done

Symptoms are:
One brake disc getting hot
Caliper not hot
No Actuator/Module whine or grind
No brake noise whether braking or not
No squeel/whine/clunks at all, ever
No steering pull or wobble
No pulsating brakes
No soft or spongey brake peddle

I'm thinking the module is actually ok and based off the videos I posted and your original advice NoExpert I think just the one side has cable seized, causing one side to work and the other to stick.

It’s quite likely based on what you’re describing. I had a sticking lever on an EPB shoe, chewed up the drum, got pretty hot, etc. it would be similar if you have a sticking cable. Trouble will be getting a replacement cable, not impossible of course, but will likely be Chinese or second hand. 2011 RRS HSE Luxury 3.0 TDV6 Fuji White on Ebony/Ivory
Born and raised in So Cal. Moved to the UK in 2018 for a few years. Now in Poland and looking at moving back to the UK.

Thanks mate, it appears you can get them pretty easily:
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/handbrake-cab...39323.html
https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/parking-...2876-c.asp

Before committing I'll remove the shoes and drive a little to see if the heat doesn't build. Then go for a replacement cable if successful. I need to replace the shoe pins anyway as they're looking worse for wear.