Herro, me again!

So I am pretty sure my 'christmas tree' of faults earlier is the battery - even after three weeks on the Ctek (via the caravan socket) the battery voltage at rest was only 12.0V which is a tad low (as reported by IIDTool, anyway). But, that aside.. behold, a new fault has appeared!

I have a persistent P132E-22 fault:

Click image to enlarge

Replying to my own thread but - I think I was looking too far back, wasn't I? I found a turbo for sale on eBay and the actuator is well forward of where I was expecting it to be (these turbos don't look anything like the good ol' Garrett GT25s I used to play with as a lad!): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-L32...4212491019

So .. heat shields out of the way or am I better off taking the plastic boxes out under the bonnet? 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

The disco boys have 1 turbo.

In your v8 you have one each side !

I’d recommend Wynn’s vvt cleaner fuel additive. (Purple bottle)
Then drive economically

You can see the actuator linkage above the yellow tape


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284112622571

Aye yep, cheers Andy - that looks like the one I found on eBay too, and yep was assuming I had two, one on each side - I was also just assuming they'd be roughly half way along the block and lowish down, and maybe visible through the wheelarch.

Looks like the linkage is probably behind the heat shields though? That's a pain.. although we now have snow and I don't really fancy crawling around in the snow today! Do need the towing capacity to pick something up next week though.

Let's see if last nights italian tune up fixed it, or if the light comes back this morning..

[edit to be read in a Morgan Freeman voice] And yes, the light did come back on. [/edit]

Yeah - flags a fault when it cycles them during the self test. Don't think I'll be laying in the 2" of snow though .. on the short test drive also witnessed a double decker bus get sideways out of a junction before bouncing off a kerb and then got home to realise I'd forgotten to unplug the Ctek from the caravan socket before setting off  2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

Oops

Maybe have one person stand on the passenger side and another drivers side
Turn the ignition on for the cycle and see which side is moving ok with clunking and which side is just humming stuck.

The EGRs do the same so it’s difficult

Turbo’s tend to be at the back

Fixed!

So, I can confirm two things:

1) Turbo "B" is the passenger side (UK)
2) It was seized solid
3) It's a ball-ache to get to
4) I have no idea how people do it through the wheel arch, but once up in the air it's actually a doddle to get to from underneath with a long hooked implement (I bent up a 12" length of M5 stud)

OK, that's four things

If anyone needs to locate them in the future, you want to be under the car and look directly up just inboard of the chassis rail, roughly level with the point where the anti-roll bar crosses over the lower suspension arm, if that makes sense. Basically find that point then go toward the middle of the car about 9" and look up. Try not to drip WD40 in your eyes when you spray it up there, and work the linkage back & forth with a hooked implement.

The drivers side is dead easy (of course that side was totally free to move already), the passenger side is a little harder to see due to the prop shaft & front transfer box, especially as you tend to need the torch directly in front of your face! 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

Clearly the V6 and V8 have to be done in different ways

Yep - at least this seemed the easiest, to me

How I did it here:  2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

good video for everyone

Much easier than V6