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Pufftmw



Member Since: 23 May 2012
Location: Carmarthenshire
Posts: 1047

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey
Main Tailgate Self-Closer Sensor

I've had it a couple of times recently but when trying to shut the boot, it shuts ok but then the motorised closer doesn't kick in to tighten it up. Just been to collect some steel and it happened again. I checked all around the edges for obstructions, the steel was 20cm from the latch minimum and I tried umpteen times to get it the motor to kick in. In the end I just drove home, unloaded and it shut and tightened straight away.

At one point I had been able to push the boot and was able to open the upper hatch, which doesn't normally happen if boot is open.

Where's the sensor for this? I couldn't see diddly that might have been. Any adjustment available as I appreciate it might have worn over the last 13.5 years? It was obviously safe as latched but bloody annoying that something not working and flashing warning messages on the dash!

Post #603139 Tue Aug 11 2020 1:13pm
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Pufftmw



Member Since: 23 May 2012
Location: Carmarthenshire
Posts: 1047

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey

Anyone know the answer to this? Its beginning to P me off big time!

On a search in here I found the only useful bit of info so far which is to pull back as you shut it, thus engaging the self-closer. However, its a bit hit/miss.

Anyone able to advise/help?

Post #604578 Tue Sep 15 2020 6:03pm
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Goffy



Member Since: 31 Oct 2018
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 76

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Alaska White

There are other threads about the bottom tailgate latch on this forum. It seems to be a fairly common failure point. Mine was latching, but failing to tell the system that the tailgate was closed, so I couldn't open it, nor could I lock the car! The electrics are inside the latch module and not get-at-able.

It is a good idea to change to latch mechanism before it goes solid fault, else you have to start breaking things to get at it and open the boot.

There's a useful video on Powerfil UK's site showing how to remove the trim panel.

The latch is secured by three torx bolts, but if you have a sub-woofer fitted you'll need to remove that as the latch comes out through that hole. The googly is that the sub-woofer is secured by 6 torx bolts, but the pattern is not symmetrical so it only goes back in one way round. I didn't know that, but next time I'll mark it to make refitting easier!

The latch is part no LR016678, but you'll find it labelled FOMOCO as it appears to be the same as the Ford Galaxy item. Of course, Ford owned LR when the L320 was designed. It might be cheaper!

Good luck

Post #604615 Thu Sep 17 2020 1:15pm
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Pufftmw



Member Since: 23 May 2012
Location: Carmarthenshire
Posts: 1047

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey

Thank you!

Post #604624 Thu Sep 17 2020 7:30pm
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Goffy



Member Since: 31 Oct 2018
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 76

United Kingdom 2010 Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 HSE Alaska White

Happy to help

If I am correct, the Ford partis 3M51R442A66AR, but please be sure to check it before you pay!

Post #604939 Sat Sep 26 2020 1:56pm
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Pufftmw



Member Since: 23 May 2012
Location: Carmarthenshire
Posts: 1047

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey

Goffy

£19.84 as Ford part and £119.99 as LR part Shocked

But my one does still work if you pull back as closing, so it encouraged me to investigate further and somewhere on here is said adjusting the rubber stops may work. Looking in the car, rubber stops are attached to the rest of the locking mechanism, so T40 torx to undo the 2 bolts, pulled it back towards me as much as possible, tightened and all works as should again Thumbs Up

Post #606859 Sat Nov 21 2020 4:01pm
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