I have a North American model 2006 Range Rover sport 4.4 ltr HSE. I recently noticed some voltage issues including my fan clutch engaging at odd times. I had the alternator rebuilt three different times. Each time after installing the new alternator I wouldonly get 12.0 to 12.5 volts I installed a brand new battery before the third alternator. No change. Today I put another new alternator in. No change. 12.7 to 12.8. Plug is well seated. Cable is secure. Serpentine belt is properly installed. I am stumped. Something is limiting the voltage. Antideas. Thanks. Phil

Check the fuse in engine bay box marked ALT

Checked it earlier. It is good. Are there any relays that are in the mix.

Maybe you need to continuity check the small wires to the alternator.

Also ensure the battery to inner wing wire isn’t loose. Common issue


Where are u measuring the voltage
And is the car complaining about it?

The alternator is designed to regulate the supply as it's needed. It may well only put out that voltage if the battery needs a little help.
Using a volt meter, did the volts fluctuate then stabilise when the system was loaded?

Do not rely on any dash volt readings if this is how you are interpreting the level. A proper meter on the battery is what is required. 2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.

I will check the negative ground cable. I used a volt meter at the battery and also used a gap tool. Phil

Are you having any other issues other than the fan switching in at odd times? There are more obvious issues if your alternator and or battery are on the way out. I’m just playing devils advocate and making sure your not off on an unrelated wild goose chase. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Normally low charge is down to a bad/poor ground.
I assume you have an AGM battery fitted and that you reset the Battery Monitoring System (BMS)

There would be no harm in running an additional earth wire from the Alternator to the Body and a second earth cable from the alternator direct to the battery, then test voltage output. In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Frightened away from the Sports due to crank failures
Gone - A couple of RRS, A couple of Disco's. However thinking of another Sport.

Worth a read
https://www.disco4.com/forum/alternator-ou...tor+output In Spain - 2018 F Pace - Frightened away from the Sports due to crank failures
Gone - A couple of RRS, A couple of Disco's. However thinking of another Sport.

Early ones don’t have bms

Ensure you are fitting a denso brand alternator

pulled the battery, pulled the negative cable. It was clean, but I hit it with a wire brush. Had to move the fuse box around to access the bolt that held the cable to the fender. Got the battery back in, started the truck and ......I have the mountain flashing on the dash, the park brake automatically sets, the yellow brake light is on, the suspension won't raise or lower, the highway/mountain switch on the center console is flashing, the transfer case is in low........arrrrrgh, what the heck did I mess up. It might be a loose wire or two in the fuse box, it might be a loose wire in the looms behind the battery.....help. Phil

Bump. I am really stuck here. Truck is stuck in low gears in transfer case, suspension options are locked. The park brake automatically sets every time the truck is shifted into park. The amber/yellow brake light is on the mountain symbol on the dash is flashing and the highway/mountain switch on the gear shift surround is flashing. All of this from moving the engine bay fuse box to replace the negative cable on the battery and to check the connection to the fender. All help is greatly appreciated. Phil

Gap tool shows the following codes:

B1a00-47(af) control module-system internal failure
U1a39-87(af) communications malfunction of right actuator bus signal failure
B1a87-68 (2 battery disconnection/electronic control unit reset
P0916-00(Pfizer) gearshift position circuit low
U0403-68 (ob) invalid data received from transfer case control module
B1b74-00(6c) front foot-defrost mode stepper actuator
B1b75-00 (6c) front foot/ face mode stepper actuator

My driver’s side left side stepper motor doesn’t sync with the blend door. That was a condition before the recent major issues. My headlight are adaptive. They are stuck cross-eyed. Says it is a ground fault issue.

Thanks. Phil

2006 Range Rover sport hse 4.4 petrol, giverny green 40,000 miles.

you could remove the battery and then check the 3? modules behind the battery to ensire they are dry and not wet.

one and engine ecu. (sounds ok)
one is transfer box (could be reason for low gears)

also check the pos cable to fuse box


So you say you removed the fusebox? lifted it up? that is also a possibility where the fault was introduced.

you could look at the big fuses to ensure they have good contact, any relating to 4x4 tx box etc


there are also some symptoms of a flat battery here. leave battery on charge over night

I think I’d start by disconnecting the battery again and leaving it for a while before reconnecting and deleting DTCs 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I had an issue with the transfer case being stuck in low. Suspension was locked in standard, Automatic park brake and other issues. I got that sorted. Misconnected plugs on two sets of wires, two wires per plug coming out of the transfer case loom. Plugged them in to the correct fitting and all is good, almost. Now when I turn the truck off and pull out they key. I wait five seconds and the flashers start flashing, the fan comes on, the radio comes on and the park brake sets. Remote won’t work. No apparent faults. What have I done. I tried a hard reset. No luck.