How many litres of engine oil is needed for the 4.2S/C and what's recommended ?

Landrover says its 10litres ?


Cheers

Jenko

Dry fill including filter and cooler: 9.4 litres (16.5 pints) (9.9 US quarts)

Oil and filter change: 7.7 litres (13.6 pints) (8.1 US quarts)

Amount of oil required to bring the level from the lower to the upper holes on the dipstick: 1.5 litres (2.6 pints) (1.5 US quarts) Malaysia Boleh!
4.2SC Chawton White, Stormers
Tasmod's Sills, Wind Deflectors, LR Sills
Clear Side Repeaters, Towbar
Larini Sports Exhaust, K&N Air Filter
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http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-2354-lookup-re...ilter=2006



any ideas which to choose

Castrol oil selector says it requires special product - probably due to their marketing arrangement with landrover to force you
To buy the dealer stuff. But any good 5w30 synthetic should work (or even 0w30 especially if you live in very cold climate). Mobil shows all their 5w30 synthetics work - my sure if the names are the same as in the uk - but my opinion - standard mob1 5w30 is ok - change oil 1 year/7.5k miles max though. Mob1 EP claims 15k drain interval - I personally wouldn't let my oil run that long. 5w30 high mileage gets good reviews on bobs-the-oil-guy - I would personally use that if the engine has at least 50k on it and change at 7.5k mixed driving or perhaps push it to 10k with mostly light motorway work.

Castrol syntec 0w30 is another good choice (bmw ll approved) and motul full synthetics also rate well.
More important is not to push the drain interval too far and use a quality filter - mobil 1 is fine , but there are others of similar construction made by champion labs under different brands including bosch.

I use landrover oil filters and plug and I've only done 7,500 miles since last service just not sure out of those 6 oils to choose from

My point is that any 5w30 synthetic will work fine. You don't see too many oil related engine failures on any car unless it was run with level too low or change interval too long. Lots of short trips need more frequent changes. So get the name brand 5w30 synhetic that is on sale at your favorite store ( the standard mob1 5w30 is just fine).

The reason manufacturers specify only to use one type include

1. Marketing arrangements - sell high margin fluid at the dealer
2. Wanting to publish long service intervals - and can only sufficiently test 1 or 2 oils - due to cost
(But like I said I wouldn't run to a 15k interval anyway)
3. Need to meet government fuel economy or emissions standards (might dictate a 0w20 for example)

If you are still under warranty you might want to stay with oem recommendations only - since if you have an oil related failure they can invalidate your warranty if you used something else. Unlikely situation though.

Just don't use non-synthetic or the wrong grade (like a 0w20 or 10w40 etc)

For example - this looks like the best deal on Amazon uk right now

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004Q5HNPK...ref=plSrch

LR recommends 5W/30

Preferred: WSS–M2C913–B
Alternative: ACEA A3/B3 Malaysia Boleh!
4.2SC Chawton White, Stormers
Tasmod's Sills, Wind Deflectors, LR Sills
Clear Side Repeaters, Towbar
Larini Sports Exhaust, K&N Air Filter
______________________________
WINNER - 2008 'Tech-Head Of The Year' Award
WINNER - 2009 Outstanding Contribution
WINNER - 2009 'Tech-Head Of The Year' Award