Hi,

I am looking to design and fabricate some rock sliders for the RR, but I need some help to know the best points to mount, I do not want to pull anything apart until I understand how all the parts clip together.

Looks like the cover under the sill has 6 mounting points.

I also would think that you need to be careful not to end up not applying a moment to the rock slider which would twist the mounting points.

I live in Sydney Australia, if that helps anyone.

Can anyone assist?

Use the same mounting points that the side steps use. Some chap in the US has made these up also our sister site disco3.co.uk has rocksliders for the D3 talked about 2005 Zambezi TDV6 - Gone but not forgotten
2009 Alaska TDV8 - Gone and much missed.



WINNER - 2009 �Idler Of The Year� Award
Runner Up - 2009 �Just Doing What It�s Designed To Do� Award


DO NOT CLICK HERE!

Hey mate,
Under the plastic cover are, if memory serves, 6 captured nuts that take M8 size bolts, ready to go.
If you choose to include a plate that moves inboard to protect compressor, tank etc, don't hard mount to both sills and frame, as the body is live mounted to allow for flex. So either use step offs from the body mounts using the standard rubbers, or live mount to the sills, and hard mount to the frame.
Alternatively, there is a guy in WA, greenoval.com.au, that has sliders for sale, as well as some underbody plating.
Hope that helps mate. I'm down in Canberra, and am just finishing off my bullbar before starting on the sliders. Happy to throw you the designs and measurements once I'm done if you like. Let me know if you need anything.
Cheers
Gov 4wding only starts when you have to get out the cab. Everything before that is just driving on crap roads!

Hey Gov,

Would be interested in seeing your front bar and sliders if you have any pics.

How do you go with ASA for the bullbar. I understand there are insurance issues if they are not ASA approved??? 'Black Betty' Java Black RRS 07 TDV6

Hey mate,

Will take some pics during the week and fire them off to you. Basically the ADR states that any frontal protection device can not adversly affect the 'crash pulse' of the car. (Which is a floored arguement from the start, but that's a seperate debate.) I took that to mean that the bar must absorb the same amount of force, and over the same distance, before transfering force to the car (rails), as the standard car. So I measured the distance from the front of the bumper cover to the bumer mounts on the rails. Within that space there was three different resistances, the plastic bumper cover honeycombing, the bumper, and the bumper stand offs. I put a piece of each into a press to get the pounds per square inch at fail. Then I designed a rail and carriage system which allows front to rear free movement, whilst being strong enough to accept upto about 20kN without damage or movement in all other directions (ie drop the wieght of the vehicle onto it). The resistance to force is provided by a set of automotive airbags, and then 'bumpstops' set to the final lb/sq inch mentioned above, and over the same stroke length. So basically, any amount of force, upto the fail level, results in the bar work moving backward under control, followed by it returning to the set position after the force is removed. It actually starts to give at a slightly lower force than the standard honeycombing does, but other than that, seems to be working well. I ran the designs past an approved engineer and he's happy to sign off on it, once I show him the figures in action. ( I guess that's the long answer to your question huh!!!)
Have done the winch craddle, and railing system. Just waiting to buy a new bender to do the bar work part. And am thinking of re-doing the plumbing, to add it into a secondary suspension inflation system.
I've not got past the design phase of either the sliders or the rear barwork yet though. (Trying to just do one thing at a time!!)
Gov 4wding only starts when you have to get out the cab. Everything before that is just driving on crap roads!