I think that goes to the front left strut ?

Two black lines do that , the yellow which I disconnected and immersed i water showed the leak. O the back of that it was showing both fronts went down with the fuse 26 out. Im sure if that is yhe end of it though as the compressor never really reaches max pressure. In saying that I filled up the gallery again and released the line at the same point behind the tank at the compressor valve block and a serious amount of air was trying to escape, At that point I was sure wether it was line release or valve block next to compressor. I then went to the front and quite a leak was showing there. So ordered seals and a new block , probably not genuine.

Compressor still taking too long and locks the suspension,

I have now taken middle valve block out to remove seals there and replace with new.

Leaking tank , rusted next to chassis was the cause .
Car pops itself up quite quickly after 24hr Park. Which I know this is not correct but tat least the compressor isn't struggling now .
How much if any , should the car drop in 24hr period.

Last edited by alfapat on Tue Aug 30 2022 5:18pm. Edited 1 time in total

They shouldn’t drop at all.

But when 10 + years old is not unusual for the front to drop over night

Replacing seals and cleaning dust in the front block usually fixes it

It's minimal drop the front block has been replaced , so I'll go with that thanks.

Looking at my last post, it's reads that I was being flippant, so sorry for that but I wasn't just saying thank you for your help there. Yes it still drops a little but a lot better than it used to be .I ca

n even put it up or down with the key buttons , useful sometimes.
Now the hydraulic valve block has sprung a leak at the filter cap , corrosion has set in on the lip that houses the o ring seal, and haven't managed to overcome this yet , unless I find a s/h one at a reasonable price. I don't relish the thought of lifting the body work again ,as I did for replacing the pipes to the front.
Has anyone changed the block without a body lift.

What is the pictured part ?

Dynamic Responce Valve block with filter and retaining plug removed, looks like it's had it's day as well.

Cheers
Col

YES SPOT ON . I have found a dowty seal that supports the rear of the seal to hopefully stop it being pressurized out at that corroded part. Just lost a bit of shoulder , I have eased this into the o ring recess , along with the O ring and used hydraulic seal on the filter plug threads. I have given this a 24hr cure and just put in oil again , so watch this space, I'm not that confident as the dowty seal has moved off centre as I torqued it up. More time and a drive is needed , the oil is so expensive , but like everything else these days .

Last edited by alfapat on Thu Aug 25 2022 8:57am. Edited 1 time in total

Fingers crossed it works

Blocks are currently unavailable, either genuine or aftermarket

What are the valve blocks made out of, Mikey? I'm assuming this is a reasonably common failure with age & corrosion and I'm wondering if the sealing area could be built up with weld and then machined back.. 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S

Alloy , would be a lot work , possible to add some alloy weld , and then re machine, but tricky spot in my case.

Could you possibly use something like JB metal repair paste to rebuild the corroded part, not sure it would work but just a thought, although the pressure might be to much.

Cheers
Col

alfapat wrote:

Alloy , would be a lot work , possible to add some alloy weld , and then re machine, but tricky spot in my case.

Doable but not on the car would be my thought there then - and cast aluminium is highly variable in terms of how easily you can build it up, but.. dismantle, clean, boil contaminants off with pre-heat, TIG the area up, remachine the sealing surfaces.. a lot of work, don't get me wrong, but if parts are unobtainum..

Probably best done on an exchange basis though.

[edited for speelung mistooks] 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S