Hi Guys,

I'm after ideas as the garage I'm using seems to have run out of them.

Initially I got the usual normal suspension height only amber light a few mins after starting the car (or turning the ignition on).
This didn't really concern me but as the MOT was coming up I decided to take it to a garage recommended on this forum. A bit of a drive but I booked it in and got a full service and full discs and pads all round while I was there. The engineers checked the car and said it was a compressor fault. We agreed to change the compressor.

When I went to collect the car and settled the bill for over £3k, I thought I'd take it round the corner to a flat road and test the suspension. Tried to put it into access height and it said "remove obstacle". So took it back to the garage.

They had it for another week and told me that both front struts were leaking. I got them replaced and collected the car again a week later.

So after paying another £1k+ I picked the car up and took it to the flat road again. Went into access height fine this time, but then when I tried to got form access to normal and then to raised it took about 2.5 mins to get to raised height.

I took it back again to check to see if this was right and they said leave it with us as it's not right.

another week later I went back, they said they had tried to replace valves and also check all the pipes for leaks but found nothing. They then told me that the suspension was designed to be raised or lowered only once while the car is stationary and it takes a little while to recharge the reservoir. I took their word for it because I only need to go into access height occasionally when I pick my mother up.

However the next morning I go to the car and notice the front of the car looks like it's in access height. I start the car and the front begins to raise. The on screen graphics says that it's already in access height.

Is this normal behaviour ?. I never had this before that I can remember ?

Not normal, sounds like a leak in the front valve block to front strut part of the system. I would suspect they’ve damaged a pipe where it connects to the strut (when they replaced the struts) or they’ve done some damage while investigating the valve block.

There are some real suspension wiz kids on the forum so they should be able to give you some good directions. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Thank you mate. It does sound like a leak somewhere doesn't it.
It's just so frustrating that after paying a combined bill (with service and new brakes) of over £4 I still have issues.

So I read that when changing the compressor you must also change the relay. Any info on this as I'm not sure if this was done.

If you change from a Hitachi to AMK you need to change the relay and do a CCF update. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Is it every morning the front is lowering? And on both sides? Kev

MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

Hard to tell really because I have yet to park it on a totally flat surface.

Last night I parked it with Passenger side on the kerb and drivers side on the road. when I got home from work 10 mins ago the drivers side (on the road) is definitely lowered both front and back. Passenger side also looks lower but not as low as the drivers side.

I will go out tomorrow morning with a ruler and record each top of wheel to arch measurement. then start the car and measure again.

Pin.

Switch to the suspension screen from startup. If one of the height sensors is playing up, you will see the wheel move up and down on the display. It might be worth getting the height sensors calibrated, as if they have been replaced and not setup properly, then the car will not sit correctly.
This sounds a bit like there are a few problems working together, causing the issue. Does the compressor run often? It should run for a minute or two when first starting in the morning, to top up the reservoir, then stop. If you hear it running frequently, then there could be a leak.
The hoses into the air struts (on top) should be push-fit, try spraying a weak soapy solution over the joint, to see if it bubbles, on the side that drops overnight.

Thanks Mate,

I don't think I've ever heard the compressor. Should I be able to her that from inside the car ?
I've heard a buzzing sound when I enter the car but the garage say that this is probably the climate control. I've only heard this the last 2 days when it was below 2 degrees. I didn't here it today when i twas above 5.

Yep, once you know what you are listening for, you can hear it inside the car, but, it's obviously clearer outside.
The compressor is under the left side of the car. It should run for a minute or two on startup, then stop.
This if often why you get a delay on the air suspension fault occurring, as the compressor tries to top up the reservoir, but the control module either notices that the pressure is not increasing sufficiently quickly, or the temperature sensor on the pump itself gets triggered. Both indicate that the compressor is not working properly.

Ok so parked up last night. Drivers side on the kerb but across a driveway so not level.
Distance from tyre rim to body arch this morning and the distance after starting the car.

Front drivers 5.1cm -> 10cm
Rear drivers 9cm -> 10.2cm
Front passengers 9cm -> 11.5cm
Rear passengers 12cm -> 11cm

Rear passenger position probably compensating for the lower opposite corner.

So is it possible I have an issue just with that front drivers side ?

OK, if i read that correctly, it looks like the drivers side front has dropped the most overnight, but that it has risen correctly when you started it in the morning. So given that you have had the front air struts replaced recently, I would be checking to see it the air line into the top of the strut is leaking.
To do this, raise it to full off-road height, and jack up that corner. Then spray some soapy water onto the brass coupling which is on the top of the strut. You will see a plastic tube come down into the strut.
If you can see bubbles forming around the coupling/tube, then it hasn't been sealed correctly.
When replacing the strut, the air supply tube should just push into the brass coupling, but it can take a bit of force to do it.
Watch this video, for a better explanation, and for the location of the coupling.



Hope this helps.

It appears that that may have been the issue.

They said they replaced the front strut again because the original ones they fitted may have been defective.
I think it was probably just the air line they overlooked.