Good Morning Folks!

I have been sctratching my head for weeks now! Managed to pick up a 2007 Range Rover Sport 2.7 TDV6 HSE some time ago with the intention of salvage purposes. The Sport is a very clean vehicle although the miles are as the depleteing ozone! Currently sitting at 180,000!

I will now refer to a brief summary regarding the issues I am experiencing. I am not a mechanic although I have a degree of the understanding regarding mechanics, I run my own business specialising in Vehicle A/C Servicing & Repair.

Anyway, I will move on.

On testing the Sport and the Engine Components etc it was identified that the Turbo was not the only issue as it was clearly apparent that the car had been overheated due to a split in the Coolant hose (EGR Valve over Power Steering Pump).

The engine had been flooded with not only Coolant but also Diesel. I managed to strip the Engine back with Body on (Absolute pain in the...say no more)!

The strip down and replacement had begun. Head Gaskets replaced, Remanufactured Fuel Pump, Oil Pump,
Generator, Water Pump, all 3 belts replaced and the list goes on! A couple of injectors were also replaced as showing defective on SDD.

Once all done the Engine fired up! You can imagine my surprise and elation! I thought what a result!!!

The Sport has only had another 1,000 miles on it since been in use without issue although I am now experiencing further issue. The Engine is showing signs of Knocking/Ticking.

I have run a stethoscope around the engine bay top end and bottom end which as you will appreciate drawn no conclusion however utilising my very untrained ear the knocking/tapping is definitely originating from Cylinder 6 Injector which is loud and completely in tune with the knock/tap.

I have removed the Injector and placed a extended screw driver down to the piston turning the Crankshaft until the Piston is fully up and just beginning its descent. I have applied pressure to the Piston to identify if there is any movement whatsoever in the return downwards fall within the Cylinder which there is not. I marked very precisely with a dab of Tipex.

I am noticing a slight degree over the normal of Grey/Black Smoke on start up with poor idling for a half a minute or so which then apart from the Knocking/Tapping soon goes away and no running issues performance wise. The Sport feels smooth and pulls well on acceleration.

The Knocking/Tapping does tend to disappear when cruising at higher RPM with no signs of smoke at the rear.

The Sport is displaying no DTC on SDD nor Launch Scanner other than when I pull the number 6 Injector which readily cancels on demand to do so.

What is clear is that when Injector Cylinder 6 is pulled the Knocking/ Tapping does reduce and appears almost non existing although obviously idles erratically.

Before I begin the enjoyable task of engine removal once again I would truly appreciate any thoughts, ideas etc. I am too knee deep in this motor now...Its become a bit of a Marmite Moment for me now!

Last edited by DCM51 on Sat Oct 05 2019 5:56pm. Edited 1 time in total

Could possibly just be a duff injector, they can cause diesel knock and tapping from the top end

Hi Tom,

Replaced Injectors with no joy.

I have posted this on the General discussion also with video footage etc.

could it be a hydraulic valve lifter? RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Lux
RRS 3.0 TDV6 gone
LR 3 HSE V8 gone
DiscoveryII V8 Gone
Discovery 1 V8 Gone
Mustang Shelby
Alfa Guilia (classic)

Hi Hog,

All lifters have been removed in order and checked, cleaned, tested, primed and then refitted again in order.


Of course, something could have gone wrong within the 1000 mile since rebuild and this is why I am hopeful someone will shout out the probable cause?


I am struggling with the idea that the potential issue being Crankshaft, Rod etc that the Sport is silent when higher RPM are reached. The Sport sounds a treat and no performance issues are present.

a roler rocker or cam lob with some play? RRS 3.0 SDV6 HSE Lux
RRS 3.0 TDV6 gone
LR 3 HSE V8 gone
DiscoveryII V8 Gone
Discovery 1 V8 Gone
Mustang Shelby
Alfa Guilia (classic)

Hi Hog,

Hopefully when I pull the Valve Cover things will become a lot clearer as if not, Valve Covers are just the beginning! The lot is coming out once again!

Hi there,
I had a similar issue with my RRS having done an engine change since the original crank had failed.

I was adamant the tapping noise was coming from the head on the replacement engine, and swapped out all the tappets in case this could fix it...no joy.

Having shipped the car to a Land Rover specialist near me they claimed it was a big end bearing, which I couldn't believe since there was no bottom end rumble when under load..

Having removed the oil filter I could detect some micro flakes in the oil which led me to remove the sump...

Number 5 big end shells had spun and damaged the crank...

For your car I would suggest at least removing the filter and dropping the oil...if you see any flakes at all this is likely to be the issue...unfortunately...

Best of luck

Hi Dave,

Thanks for giving me the heads up fella...

Things have somewhat progressed this morning!

I have had the valve cover off once again only to identify that my first suspicions being cylinder 6 at fault which has now been confirmed.


I have provided a link with video taken to assist others who believe they have a similar problem. Its a straight forward test using no specialist tools etc but very effective at isolating potential problems with bearing noise etc.


If you listen carefully on the return of the Piston downwards, slight pressure is applied and a audible click can be heard as well as clear minimal movement being felt via the hand.



I have dropped the oil on several occasions since purchasing the vehicle as a non runner (Alleged Turbo issue) and have found no swarf etc within the filter, housing or sump. Everything looks clean apart from the engine being flooded with diesel fuel and water due to head gasket failure which very likely to have caused this issue to arise in the first place.


A forum member has given a rough guide regarding dropping the ladder frame situated above the sump and I am considering making attempts to remove, any input would be great!

Hi there,

Couldn't really hear the click on the video but are you indicating the piston moves down slightly when pushed..?
You have to drop the main sump, then the alloy sump carrier above that to access the big end bearings...
I have a hoist which makes it far easier.
Just make sure you spot all the bolts that secure the alloy section...am trying to remember whether any go through the oil pump..you can slide it out without removing anything else such as transfer shaft etc.
When I inspected mine the play was really obvious once you pushed on the big end bearing cap...still couldn't believe it since the engine ran beautifully apart from the ticking noise..
Regards Dave

Hi Dave,

Piston drops down albeit very minimal. You can hear the audible tone just as I apply pressure.


I suppose it could well be Piston, Connecting Rod related not just bearing related?


If the Ladder frame comes out as you say, that will be a result!


I have mentioned often, this Sport is just to good to scrap. I have done a lot of work already so not at the point of quitting just yet!

I would say if you can hear the movement, then the play is already too much...hope I am wrong.

Unlikely to be the little end,just my opinion...

I ended up buying a Jag S type and using the engine rather than have the crank re ground....now have two old lumps in my workshop and not sure whet to do with them...Ebay I guess..

Keep me posted once you make any progress..

Cheers

Cheers Dave,

I suspect there are quite a lot of these engines sitting in ones garage all over the Country!

Highly likely that I will be joining that club very soon?!

I will keep going at it... once I have had chance to have a good look at the Sump Carrier and decide where I go next?

Cheers for the input fella! Any news I will update!

Sound travels strangely in the engine bay. I've been caught out in the past thinking it was a top end noise, only to find out it was in the bottom end after stripping down the engine.

I would strongly recommend that you don't run the engine again until you've found the problem. If it is a big end issue, the crank can quickly become too damaged to regrind.

Bite the bullet and lift the engine out. The amount of time you'll waste trying to remove the sump ladder is far better used to get yourself in a position to fix what you find. Joe

Morning Joe,

Thanks for the sound advice!

The Bullet you speak of has been firmly bitten!

Engine Hoist, Engine stand in the post!

I only wish I had known the true extent of the engine condition prior to stripping it back in situ replacing every peripheral component, Head Gaskets (Original Failure although Turbo Failure was given by seller) Turbo, Generator, Oil Pump, Water Pump, all belts etc! I could have had the engine out from the very outset! I recall vividly peering down in to the depths of the engine bay seeing both engine mounts and Bell Housing bolts (Top) in full view! Hindsight? Its a wonderful thing!

Should have forseen the issues to be honest when I replaced my first A/C Compressor on a Jaguar 2.7 S Type!

However? It has become a good learning curve. Prior to the Knocking/Tapping and all the above being carried out I have got this Sport up to a very good standard therefore quitting now is not an option! I suppose the £2000 I paid for it in 2017 was a result if only in Salvage as that was my first intention.

Research is the key!

I am interested to know what timescale is in engine removal (Body on) working flat out? Any idea?

Not seen much regarding video relating to the 2.7 TDV6 Engine Removal therefore I am considering making a video diary a long the way to assist others who succumb to what appears to be somewhat common issue.