2012 HSE. It started with sat nav, then loss of connection with phone, then reverse sounds & Radio/TV (reverse camera works but only in mono - not colour).

Starting to delve into the various black boxes in the rear of the car behind seat belt pillar on the drivers side - Am I getting close?? (found the AMP & DAB box)

I've seen so many forums stating it may be the Bluetooth box - any ideas what I'm looking for (someone stated it was fiber-optic -so thicker leads and i could bypass them to find the culprit) - Any photos??

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Dataman

Bluetooth is part of the IAM (integrates audio module) in the dash so no separate module. The Sport has a MOST based system which uses fibre optic cabling to pass the data. Have you had any work carried out in the dash, centre console, rear seat or right boot panel areas?

Does your screen still display the soft keys but they are greyed out? Soft keys selectable with no output or is it blank? 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

No work carried on anywhere.

Screen displays the soft keys - if I press the sat nav - it goes to another screen stating 'trying to find disk'

Radio - states 'Audio on' or Audio off' if I press the main on/off button on the dash. - Volume control on dash and steering wheel shows volume up and down visually , but no sound.

Phone - states 'Please pair phone'

Any ideas???

Ideally you need the codes read with a tool that will give the specific LR fault codes but you could check the Amp in the boot for any wiring damage or damp ingress (doesn’t take much). Check the connections are good etc.

Have you checked the fuses?

The Sat NAV info and Blue tooth are in the IAM so that could be an issue (or at least the fibre optic) as I believe that it’s either the IAM or the FCDIM (touch screen) that is the most controller. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

So, it looks after all the investigations I've had done that the actual head unit is broken and have been quoted £1400 + fitting by my local Range Rover Service guy (not main dealer)

Anyone know if it's worth getting a 'used' one from ebay if available?

Cheers

Can you send me your vin by PM and I’ll get you the engineering number as the LR part number is of no use when searching for a second hand unit.

Cost will be £120 to £200 on eBay and you can fit yourself in about 15 minutes. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Defo worth going 2nd Hand.

I bought one to use with my Tesla Headunit, extremely easy to fit.

My original code is below, this was a dual screen unit, the one where the passenger sees a different picture to the driver:

DH3210E889BB

The one without dual screen was:

DH3210E889AA

I'm assuming your talking about this head unit:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-SPO...2749.l2649

When people refer to the head unit it’s usually the IAM (internal audio module) which is the Sat Nav, Blue Tooth, DVD etc. The FCDIM is the screen and is the gateway module. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Thanks for the clarification Brit Plumber, I will get back in my box

To the contrary you were right to bring it up as the OP may indeed mean the screen. I assumed and quite probably wrongly, that he was referring to the IAM but he could quite easily mean the screen. So no, don’t get back in your box! 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Hi

Its the IAM module

Been to various main dealer parts departments and been told: LR040662 as a LR part.

The WERS No. on my unit is: CF6N-18C815-HC

I was told that this has now changed by LR to: CF6N-18C815-HR

So confusing!!??

Is it really 15 mins to change the unit out??

It’s the WERS number you want, that’s the engineering number. The new number is just an updated version so will have new firm ware loaded. I’m surprised at the new number though as that’s a recent one.

Yes, it’s about 15 minutes. You need a Philips screwdriver and a Torx bit/screwdriver and possibly a socket. Pop the CD slot trim out by putting a club/credit card in the gap at the bottom and prying up and out. Behind that are 2 Philips screws, remove those. If you have a gear stick, put the stick in neutral and pull the knob and trim off. Now open the cubby lid and you need to pull the end of the hockey stick up on one side, then the other. Pull that up and back wards so the front rotates out of the dash. The wires underneath are long enough for you to lay it upside down on the passenger seat. Now you can see the IAM. At the bottom of the plastic support frame you will see the key antenna, remove the connector from it. Then remove the 4 (I think) Torx screws and pull the unit and frame out of the dash. Disconnect the plugs on the rear. Swap the black frame to the module if it hasn’t got one and reverse the procedure not forgetting to reconnect the key antenna or the car won’t restart!! 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Many thanks for the update

I’ve purchased a used model Jag exact numbers as mine - £175 - so when I get it I’ll give it a go.

I have the pop up gear puck on mine - do I have to remove it - any help would be welcome

Very much obliged for all your help

Richard

I think your fine with the pop up knob. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I have 2010 Range Rover sport. North American model. Is the CD player the internal audio module. The unit that sits below the navigation screen. Thanks. Phil