Good Afternoon All,

So I got the infamous Christmas lights in the car today.

Basically, 1hr drive in 40C heat with a 20 minute stop with engine left running. No issues

After returning to the car 3 hours later it wouldn't start, and all the lights lit up.

I cleared all faults using the IDD Tool and the car finally started, but it struggled (so assumed the battery had drained) took the car for a drive (20 mins) to top up the battery and no issues. Only had the park brake light fault remained.

Stopped, cleared faults again and everything was gone. I did however note that a couple of times the IDD Tool did say "unable to update".

Returned to car an hour later and Christmas tree back, including hazards on, and various warning about HDC, transmission faults, suspension etc etc. Tried clearing faults with no great success, but eventually got her started and limped home (2 mins drive)

Basically, had no 1st or 2nd, and steering very heavy, temperature gauge through the roof with warning light on, however voltage from IDD tool showed 14.4 when engine running and AC etc on.

At home I disconnected the battery and checked , only 10V max. Shorted the cables to do a hard reset reconnected and tried to start, all lights back and nothing. No real surprise if the battery is at 10V...

So question is, is it:

A. Brake switch by pedals, or
B. Dead Battery, or
C. Dead alternator, or
D. None of the above.

Would appreciate any feedback as its now the weekend here, as well as Ramadan so hoping it's the battery so I can sort it myself tonight. If not the cars off the road 'til Sunday and will need to be towed as I'm not risking further damage by driving in her in this condition.

THanks in advance


Guy 2006 RRS S/C CONSTANTLY under modification...
1994 RRC 4.2l not LSE sadly gone but not forgotten
LR Defender 300Tdi - affectionately know as "The Black Beast"

I would think the battery would be your first option,,, 14V plus showing at tickover sounds like a healthy alternator,,, 10V at battery looks as if it has completely failed on a few cells. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Had a very similar experience recently to what you are saying you're having. Mine required a new instrument cluster however I would definitely try a replacement battery as a starting point.

Gogsy, Spangler,

Spot on battery was FUBAR...Just wasn't sure as it's less than 18 months old but it does get loads of abuse with lots of short journeys and extremely hot weather. We've had northward of 40C last few days so I guess it all takes its toll.

Swapped m new battery from Bosch, cleared faults and all good. Let's see tomorrow morning how things look.

Thanks again 2006 RRS S/C CONSTANTLY under modification...
1994 RRC 4.2l not LSE sadly gone but not forgotten
LR Defender 300Tdi - affectionately know as "The Black Beast"

Good to hear it looks to have been resolved quickly and cheaply. Fingers crossed you have no more issues.

Spangler,

It's a 13 year old Land Rover, of course there will be issues 😁😁

Cheers  2006 RRS S/C CONSTANTLY under modification...
1994 RRC 4.2l not LSE sadly gone but not forgotten
LR Defender 300Tdi - affectionately know as "The Black Beast"

Glad you got it sorted Guyzer  Kev

MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

Failed after 18 months,,, I know there is an optimum working temperature but I would have thought it should last a bit longer, a lot of manufacturers offer 3 or 4 guarantees now,, even with the cheaper units. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

gogsy1956 wrote:

Failed after 18 months,,, I know there is an optimum working temperature but I would have thought it should last a bit longer, a lot of manufacturers offer 3 or 4 guarantees now,, even with the cheaper units.: