Hi
My 2006 RRS drops to the bump stops at the rear when parked for a few hours, both wheels are the same. When started it pumps up and the different ride heights can be selected, no warning lights etc so I suspect an air leak. Is there a common area that would cause both rears to drop, I was thinking maybe a valve block ?

First of all, check that it isn't an electronics issue. You can pull the fuse that controls the air suspension and see if it still drops. If it does, then it's most likely an air leak. The only common part between the two rear corners is the valve block. It might have some muck in it from the air dryer. The air drier is part of the compressor and it's not unknown for some of that material in it to be blown through the system as it ages. That could then stop the valves closing fully.

The valve block can be opened up and cleaned out but the block isn't that expensive. About £100 from memory. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

of you can get seals for £15 ish off ebay.

For the pain it is to remove the rear valve block, its silly not to replace the seals at the same time

Hi
I have tried the icarsoft Land Rover scanner and there are no suspension faults. I have ordered the O ring kit just in case, where do I find the valve block ?
Thanks

It's kinda between the spare wheel and the left rear wheel arch.

A right pain to re connect the pipes, so give yourself plenty of time

Do the fuse remoal test first

Ok thanks I will have a look.

Hi
What a job !
I managed to remove the rear valve block and replace all the seals. The rear pipes were a struggle to say the least, particularly as one the the fittings wasn’t free to turn on the pipe. Some sign of white powder in there so I might rebuild the compressor next. The suspension has pumped up to the correct height, I will see if it’s still there in the morning !
Not sure what else would cause the rear to sit on its bump stops.

This morning the NSR is very low but the OSR isn’t as bad (previously they were both on the bump stops) something’s improved slightly. Wonder if the pipes/fittings are leaking ?

Check the pipe to the low side.

The other could just be dropping to level

I’ve been round the rear valve block and pipe fittings etc with some soapy water but no sign of leaks/bubbles, however I did find bubbling around the blue connector on the dryer top, hopefully this is the problem.

Are the bubbles at the front of the compressor where the pipes come out? If so its a plastic cover held in with about 6 screws and they crack between the pipe exit points. I had this on my 2005 D3 and bought an aluminium cap off the bay of fleas for about £30 and replaced it myself. on the drive It cured the compressor problem, but I didn't have any suspension drop problems that you have. May not be connected and you have two issues.

Have a look at this from D3 forum. It's a how to and at the end of the post it mentioned a cap from ebay.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/suspension-...02168.html

while its good to sort the compressor cap (and fairly easy) as it will extend its life significantly. I don't think that issues causes drop.

A corner dropping is usually

1) The air bag suspension strut
2) The seals in the valve block (or the white dust preventing seal working)
3) The pipe/connections between valve block and corner suspension strut

This is why you were told to remove the fuse, and leave over night. Helps show the problem up

Hi
Yes the bubbles are around where the cover with the 6 screws.

I did leave the car with the fuse out and it seams to drop at the osr corner, there aren’t any bubbles from any of the fittings entering into the valve block or where the pipes enter each rear strut (both of which appear quite new). As the drop now favours just 1 side after changing the seals in the block I will replace it with a new one - which has just arrived in the post along with the compressor/dryer rebuild kit.
Unless the new strut is leaking, but I suspect that was changed by the PO trouble shooting ?

Hi
Quick update, I’ve fitted a new valve block to the n/s rear and left the car with fuse 3 out. Again the rear n/s has dropped. Can’t find a leak on the short pipe or fittings from the block to the strut (both rear struts appear quite new).
What effect would the valve block under the compressor cover have, is that the front/back split ?
Also the compressor is cycling on and off while the car is stationary, is that normal or caused by the leak in the dryer cover/lid ?
Many thanks

You changed that quickly the second time.

Does sound a bit like the strut despite being new.
Have another go with bubbles.

The middle valve block is to do with the tank afaik.

No the compressor shouldn’t cycle. To do with the cap for starters.
Fix that and maybe ignore the other issue