I really had hoped you would not have said that. very bad news guess.

Had the Rear ACE assembly replaced just last week ouch!!. Along with disks and pads all-round.

Could I trouble you to offer me some advice as to how and where I get one that is not from a LR main dealer and therefore cheaper? Do you have any idea of the expected cost of the labour?

I have looked but cannot find any sense as part numbers seem to not exist. Would it also be worth changing the receiver dryer assembly on the side of the condenser radiator?

I registered on TOPIX and downloaded the stuff relevant to ACE for that issue and because the AC pump was noisy I did also for the compressor pump. However, the part number issued from PDF file on TOPIX says DENSO 7SEU17.

It really is not impressive at all that such arts have died with only 43k miles on the clock. I know I am winging but Jesus, the cost of some of these parts are horrendous.

I really appreciate your quick reply. Its people like you that make the forums so very helpful. SVR On My Wish-List
MY 2010 RR Sport TDV8 Autobiography (current)
MY 2006 RR Sport TDV8 HSE

The part number for the compressor is LR014536

As for costs, I would use my trusted independent LR specialist over a dealer to save money, I'm lucky in that I have a very good LR Indy close to home.

The drier will need to be replaced, it should be replaced any time the system is opened up to atmosphere. The part number is JRJ500020

Sorry I cant help with lowering your costs further other than if you have an independent mechanic willing to fit a part you have sourced yourself , this might save a few pennies. eBay is your friend using the above part number but beware, doing this will not carry any warranty or recourse should the new part fail. Advanced Factors or Duckworths whom are forum sponsors will be able to supply the compressor also, and some discount may be available.

Last edited by GodivaNige on Mon Sep 18 2017 11:15am. Edited 1 time in total

Have a look on fleebay a lot of them ask for your ref so they can comfiem the pump will fit and then maybe take it to an indie if you don't want to fit it yourself

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr014536...3400-p.asp

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/1234...ort___l322

The advanced factors price seems to be the cheapest so that is what I will have to do.

Thank you so much for your advice. I still cannot understand why the compressor would fail this soon. It only stopped working at idle about a year ago. guess i should have looked closer into the issue at that time.

Cheers

John SVR On My Wish-List
MY 2010 RR Sport TDV8 Autobiography (current)
MY 2006 RR Sport TDV8 HSE

The valves within a compressor break when the compressor pumps liquid refrigerant. So, the mileage of your car is irrespective to this problem.
Compressors are designed to ONLY compress gaseous vapor.

There are various reasons why an air conditioning or refrigeration system sometimes has liquid returning to the compressor.

Lack of airflow over the evaporator due to blocked pollen filter or faulty blower motor
Overcharged system
Faulty expansion valve

So it's important when the compressor has been changed to ensure a clean pollen filter is fitted and the system isn't overcharged by your installer.

johnsporttdv8 wrote:

The advanced factors price seems to be the cheapest so that is what I will have to do.

Thank you so much for your advice. I still cannot understand why the compressor would fail this soon. It only stopped working at idle about a year ago. guess i should have looked closer into the issue at that time.

Cheers

John

See this thread re discount

http://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/topic42096.html

If the Compressor is genuine LR and was supplied by LR, they all carry a full 2 year warranty, so reading how long you have had it, it should be covered for replacement under Warranty. The 2 year guarantee is now applicable to all LR genuine supplied parts. John

RRS MY12 SDV6 HSE. Sumatra Black/Ebony & Walnut + Dynamic Pack, + Cold Climate Pack + Memory Pack, Digital TV/DVD, Premium Leather, Cornering Lights, Cooler/Fridge Box, & most Options.

GodivaNige.

Thank you for the thread link. I have PM Steve with the part number to see if the discount can be available.

from what you say I am a bit concerned as to the possibility of destroying the new compressor.
1.To be honest, the pollen filter had not been changed until this summer and when I removed it it was clearly in need of changing but I would not describe it as clogged up to the point of restricting air flow. the air vent flow was still strong and with the new filter not much if any changes were noticed.
2. Blower motor has never failed as of yet
3. The system was advised to me as being low on gas by the LR main dealer who topped it up as a gesture for my ACE repair bill.

One of the things most impressive about this TDV8 as the efficiency of the AC and really cold air when required. Based in the Uk it does not get worked that hard when compared to owners in hotter climates.

If I renew the compressor and the dryer and the system is loaded with correct 650 of 134a do you think I should have my indy change anything else?

The thought of the expansion valve being the culprit in destroying the compressor is of concern to me as this part is inside the cabin and likely a to remove and even harder to test.

your thoughts would be much appreciated.

Cheers

John SVR On My Wish-List
MY 2010 RR Sport TDV8 Autobiography (current)
MY 2006 RR Sport TDV8 HSE

Forget the expansion valve, it is rare they fail in automotive systems.

Re the compressor change, yes, after the new compressor is fitted, replace the drier core then pressure test with nitrogen. It should hold 200psi for an hour with no loss after which the system can be evacuated, an hour minimum on vac to ensure all moisture has boiled off.
New refrigerant then weighed in to the correct charge

New pollen filter fitted and all should be good.

Thank you!

I will get the parts paid for tomorrow and book the job in for next week.

Hopefully, I will be able to enjoy some trouble-free AC cool driving for a while.

John SVR On My Wish-List
MY 2010 RR Sport TDV8 Autobiography (current)
MY 2006 RR Sport TDV8 HSE

GodiveNige.

Just a thought. Given that the aircon stops producing cold air on idle could there be another reason for this and perhaps the pump although noisy is still working.

Could the fan not be spinning fast enough t pass the required air over the condenser? I have tried again when engine idle and actually you only have to lift the RPM up by a just a few points closer to 900 and the air gets cold and condenser temp lowers to 1 or 2 degs.

would you still consider this to the AC pump?

One final point. The AC pump is not noisy all the time. today with outside temp of 13 and inside temp set to hold 19 the pump come son but is relatively quiet. It seems only when the outside temp is 21 and inside set to 16 that after a while when the engine is quite hot(normal temp on the gauge) that the AC pump is the noisiest.

Cheers
John SVR On My Wish-List
MY 2010 RR Sport TDV8 Autobiography (current)
MY 2006 RR Sport TDV8 HSE

To verify if your compressor is faulty, take your car to a (qualified) air conditioning engineer (not someone who has had an hour training on a machine) and ask for it to be checked. Using a manifold gauge an engineer will be able to tell immediately if the compressor is faulty by viewing the suction and discharge pressures. A faulty compressor will show less of a differential between the suction pressure and discharge pressure in comparison to a healthy compressor. An engineer will know what pressures to expect from a healthy compressor for the given ambient and cabin temperatures at the time of testing.

If there was insufficient airflow over the condenser, the system would trip on HP and a fault will be recorded in the ECU
You shouldn't be able to hear an AC compressor at all, especially over the engine noise. They run almost silent, just a faint whine which should be indistinguishable over your engine.

At idle, your air con should still be working sufficiently to give you cold air. As above, an engineer will see if there is a fault by taking the pressure readings whilst your engine is ticking over