Hi guys on my rrs 2006 2.7 I've got a problem with the battery keeps draining
I've replaced the battery 3 weeks ago and if I leave the car for a day or 2 less sometimes
It's goes flat
I've checked vin numbers for the call back about the instrument panel drain and mines
Noting the range of numbers affected
I've taken the back upper tailgate glass release rubber off and it's pretty corroded but does work even tho
One side of the release mechanism is broken
Would this still be draining the battery even tho switch is sometimes still working
Or should I replace the switch ??
Cheers

Yes, that could indeed be the cause.  Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Ok great I'll get a new one hopefully that will work

Hi Morgi, mines flat again this morning.

Wondered how you'd got on with your new tailgate switch?

Nige 2005 RRS HSE Arctic Frost (more like Scotch mist)

"When you are going through Hell - keep going!" Sir W Churchill

Free plumbing advice to fellow sufferers

I had a similar problem with mine, it worked out to be a rusty upper tailgate switch which prevented the 'sleep mode' to start after 16 mins.
After this was replaced, all is good.

If that doesn't fix it - you could start measuring drain at each fuse to try and find offending circuit ...
I had bad alternator diodes which was allowing current to drain when car was off - alternator body was warm after being left overnight - that is one drain you will not see at the fuse box ...

Cheers Alpaca, now if only I could find the bloody thing!

Bought a smart charger and its spent the delay on repair mode so hopefully it's just been running on half charge for too long but we'll see. 2005 RRS HSE Arctic Frost (more like Scotch mist)

"When you are going through Hell - keep going!" Sir W Churchill

Free plumbing advice to fellow sufferers

Just taken it off charge - was a solid green light indicating full charge and tried it out but even less power than before.

I'm going to check the terminals are tight and clean tomorrow but it's becoming a bit of a worry.

Can anyone tell me what voltage is normal when the engine is running/off please?

I'll search alternator diagnosis on here but if anyone knows I'd be very grateful.

Nige

p.s had the tailgate switch out yesterday and it looks like it has been replaced, certainly no corrosion in the connector block. Plenty of corrosion on the tailgate steel plate though when the outer plastic shroud was removed (long story) 2005 RRS HSE Arctic Frost (more like Scotch mist)

"When you are going through Hell - keep going!" Sir W Churchill

Free plumbing advice to fellow sufferers

Range Rover sport top hatch switch replacement, before fitting the new switch seal the rubber boot with silicone or superglue to stop dampness getting inside the switch this will stop the contact from rusting and causing a battery drain. As you can see in the pics my old switch hasn’t any rust and been on the car for the last 15 years,only reason for the change was from over use

Nigex4x4 wrote:

Can anyone tell me what voltage is normal when the engine is running/off please?

Engine off = 12.6V or higher, less than 12V and you've probably got a dead cell (standard 12V battery is six cells, 2.1V per cell)
Cranking = 11V or more ideally - this one is harder to measure as you need six hands and eyes on stalks
Charging = mid 13V upward.. modern smart charging systems ramp charge voltage up and down as demand requires, but basically you should see 13.4V ish or more under all conditions. Check it first with the engine running, if it is low try with 2000rpm. If it's 13.3V or so, make sure it doesn't drop below that if you turn on all the electrical loads (lights, heated windscreens, heated seats, blower on high etc). Under 13.3 suggests a dodgy alternator and above 15V likewise..

When my alternator died it would swing wildly between about 12.2V (not charging, battery draining) and 18V (which will cause all sorts of christmas tree light faults!). 2014 BMW 530d Touring, 2006 BMW 650i, 2018 Mini Cooper S