Top tip,warm your part slightly with a hair drier before you paint,will help reduce build up on your edges.

sounds like a great tip, mrfixit. many thanks for that !!! Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

so, i'm trying a new technique today with my lower tailgate trim:
yesterday i sprayed one light layer of primer, dried an hour then one heavy layer. left this overnight, sanded with 800 wet and dry then cleaned thoroughly.
then sprayed four layers of color. first two layers very light, then two medium layers, with about an hours drying inbetween.
i have just finished off the clear coat, three medium layers. I had a guy suggest to me that I should polish the surface, after it's sufficiently hardened, with 2500 wet and dry, the reason being that it'll make a more durable, compact surface. and then use t-cut then buff. so tomorrow late afternoon, after 24 hours of hardening, i'll try this new technique.
photos tomorrow. Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

little update on the new spray technique...it's far far better! the thing that makes the difference is polishing with the 2500 wet and dry once the clear coat has hardened. The finish is far smoother and shinier. so i took my handles off, the ones i sprayed the other day, polished these with the wet and dry and what a massive difference.

in fact, 2500 is a little too fine, so i'll get some 2000 for future projects!

i used the following video for guidance (its to do with a guitars, but principle still the same):
#t=77

i promise pics, just that i am so busy lately with work & raising a kid & moving house & starting a new business & spraypainting & golf blah blah blah. Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

If I wasn't so busy I would worry about you guys putting me out of business only thing I wouldsay is if your using spray cans it will most prob be single pack lacquer. So put plenty on as the shine will drop in time. At least if there's plenty on you can keep polishing it back up with compound/t cut..looks a nice job though  silverRRS 2.7 TDV6 22"WHEELS FULL COLOUR CODE,STEPS,REMAP..gone
Rimini red rrs 2.7 tdv6 steps. Full c code. Recon engine!!loved but!gone ,thank god !!
Gone rr sport supercharged. Loved but 11mpg !!!
current,triumph stag mk2...current bmw 325 sport convertible

thanks for the tip there gazzc! the shop said two layers clear coat max, but on the tailgate trim i put 4 thin layers for extra protection. it kinda made sense, especially on the things that are being man handled thanks again. Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

....especially on the things that are being man handled thanks again.

I see what you did there  MY2007 RRS TDV8 Black - tinted glass - side steps- stormer grille - 20" diamond cut alloys - alpaca leather - TV/DVD pack - some blingy chrome bits & bob's

ok so little update with pictures. stopped off at services yesterday and took some close up pics in the summer sun of the newly painted handles.

all i need to do now is take the smaller covers off and paint them...should be a very simple task now that all the "trial and error" stuff is out of the way. sanding with the 2000 wet and dry after the clear coat makes the world of difference

picture of same handle, two different angles:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

This was inspirational. I love the 2000 wet and dry video on making it smooth, guessing thats the key. I'm going to do this on my front grill - I bought it for £50 on ebay, its the honeycomb look - it came in chrome, so I'm going to do it in Stornoway grey. Just ordered the paint and primer and sanding sheets. I'll love this! 

glad you liked/loved it designboy  Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

Well this weekend I've done my 3 primers - then so far 3 colour layers its the Stornoway grey I've got so I'm tempted to give it another one or two then clear coat it tomorrow I've my 2000 wet and dry ready, I sanded lightly with it on the primer but it revealed the edges in a flash! Its my new grill I'm doing, want it chrome and the surround to match my body work.

So far I'm well pleased! I'm sure the big reveal is once you get the clear coat on, tomorrow I'll go for it as the temp and humidity have went a bit crappy with the weather here.

Great tips here though, I'd never have done it had I not read this!  

just make sure that the primer is thoroughly hardened before you do any sanding. at least 24 hours. i wouldn't bother sanding the primer anyway, unless there are imperfections. you mentioned that sanding revealed the edges...i found this also and the way i got around this was to make sure that i smoothed the sharper edges with 800 wet and dry before spraying with primer.

you can get away with starting to spray the clear coat an hour after spraying the last coat of color. from what i've been reading it can be an advantage to spray clear coat on a sticky color, to create a good bond. but im not sure if this is really the case.

i can put a piccie up of my air vent later, just finished the clear coat off last weekend and sanding it down later tonite. allowing the clear coat to harden thoroughly is in my opinion the most important part of the process. Recently bought a 2007 RRS HSE TDV6 for a Pimp-My-Ride-Project.
DONE: Meduza front bumper, AB rear bumper, AB tailpipes, calipers repainted, rear upper tailgate upgrade, side steps, AB front grille, AB side vents, rear LED lights, clear side repeaters, integrated daytime running lights, LED headlights.
TO DO: color code sills and pillars.

Awesome, then last coat on about 10 mins ago so I'll fire on a clear coat in 50 then give it the night to cure then tomorrow give it another one or two.

Post the vent! Love to see work like this, you never posted the rear trim either  

how's it going with the front grille, designboy?
i'm spraying mine. just sprayed the penultimate layer of clear coat. half-sunny today so hopefully it cures fast for the polishing. ive added a few more layers of clear coat, simply because of the bashing it takes with the stone chips and what not.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Mine worked a treat! Been afraid though to let anyone wash it with a pressure washer lol
Its really good actually, I'll post a pic in a min...