Ignore step 9, as I couldnt get the senser out, and never even bothered trying on the other side.
Also Step 12 says Push the driveshaft out of the hub. If it does not move then you will need to hammer it out either with a mallet or centre punch.
Do not hit it with a hammer, a simple £10 3 point extractor from Machine mart is all you need 07,TDV8,Black, Black Heated leather all round, Rear Entertainment with Headpones & Remote, TV, DVD, Pure Dab Digital Radio, Sidesteps, Adaptive Headlights, sunroof, now working fuel burning heater )))

Awesome, mate I love these posts, I'm one of the (many) amateur driveway mechanics, who are encouraged to do these things for ourselves.

Should this be a sticky/Knowledge base article ??

just make sure you know a friendly garage, as I could not undo one of the stake nuts, infact I broke a Clarke four foot long bar on it.
My local garage got it undone with ease, using a 1 inch driver on a 4 foot long Snap On racket, I doubt if any home mechanic has something as big as that knocking about.
And another thing , try and undo the Disc Torx screw first before anything else, if it wont losen, then you need to order new ones, about £5 from ebay and then drill them out, one came undone, the other side wouldnt and I ended up stripping the head and my fingers
But you do save yourself a pretty penny and you have the pleasure of knowing that you did it 07,TDV8,Black, Black Heated leather all round, Rear Entertainment with Headpones & Remote, TV, DVD, Pure Dab Digital Radio, Sidesteps, Adaptive Headlights, sunroof, now working fuel burning heater )))

You forgot one important step between 12 and 13: getting the old wheelbearing out. Not easy, particularly if you do not have a /the right puller. Hammering it out is a pain in the neck and not without risk of damage (see JLR workshop manual)

kav1187 wrote:

Hi Guys,

Here's how I changed my front wheel bearings. Larger pics are available in my gallery.

Tools:

Jack
Wheel Wrench
3 Tonne Axle Stands
32mm Socket
21mm AF Socket or ring end of spanner
15mm Socket
8mm Spanner
13mm Spanner
17mm Spanner
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
Hammer/Mallet
Centre Punch
Chisel (flat)
T50 Torx
Thin flat bladed screw driver

Time: approx 1 hour

Torque Settings

Hub retaining bolts - 115nm
Disc support bolt - 35nm
Caliper Carrier (21mm bolts) - 275nm
Caliper bolts - 35nm
ABS sensor bolt - approx 20nm
Hub Nut - 230nm
Wheel bolts - 140nm

Prep:
Lower vehicle to access height
Lock vehicle in access height
Apply Electronic Park Brake (EPB)

Step 1
Using a thin, flat bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the centre cap out.



Step 2
Using the 32mm socket, loosen the hub nut but do not remove



Step 3
Loosen but do not remove the wheel nuts


Step 4
Lower vehicle to access height and lock. Apply EPB then jack the vehicle up remembering to use axle stands to support the weight.




Step 5
Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel

Step 6
Loosen the 13mm caliper bolts top and bottom. Use the 17mm spanner to hold the inner nuts still. Do not let the caliper hang by the flexi hose. I found that resting it on the ARB worked for me.



Step 7

Using a 21mm AF socket or ring end of a 21mm spanner, loosen the carrier bolts top and bottom and remove the carrier.



Step 8
Using the T50 torx, loosen the disc support bolt and pull the disc off.



You should be left with this



Step 9
Undo the 8mm ABS sensor bolt and carefully wiggle the sensor out.



Step 10
Use a wire brush and plenty of WD40 to clean the threads of the hub retaining bolts. Undo the four 15mm hub retaining bolts.




Step 11
Use the 32mm socket to remove the hub nut you loosened in step 2

Step 12
Push the driveshaft out of the hub. If it does not move then you will need to hammer it out either with a mallet or centre punch.

Step 13
Fit the new hub/bearing and hand tighten the hub nut to pull the driveshaft through.





Step 14
Fit and tighten the hub retaining bolts to 115nm.

Step 15
Fit ABS sensor and tighten 8mm bolt to approx 20nm.

Step 16
Fit disc and tighten disc retaining bolt to 35nm.

Step 17
Fit caliper carrier and tighten the 21mm bolts to 275nm.

Step 18
Fit caliper and tighten 13mm bolts to 35nm.

Step 19
Fit wheel and hand tighten the wheel nuts. Remove the axle stands and lower the car.

Step 20
Tighten hub nut to 230nm (used to be 275 but LR reduced it to 230 to put less stress on the bearings).



Step 21
Jack up the car. Remove the wheel and make a notch in the hub nut using a flat chisel.



Step 22
Fit wheel and nuts, lower the car and torque tighten wheel nuts to 140nm

Step 23
Fit centre cap


Step 24
Take the locking wheel nut out of the wheel

Step 25
Give yourself a pat on the back

A Bearing puller is £8.95 from Machine Mart. At that price why are you even struggling hitting it with a hammer? 07,TDV8,Black, Black Heated leather all round, Rear Entertainment with Headpones & Remote, TV, DVD, Pure Dab Digital Radio, Sidesteps, Adaptive Headlights, sunroof, now working fuel burning heater )))

Out of curiosity - are we going OEM or Aftermarket? L494 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY20 in Eiger Grey (Current)
L494 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY14 in Chile Red
L320 3.0L SDV6 Autobiography MY10 in Baltic Blue (RIP first RRS love 29/03/2021 insurance total loss)

Most people swear by Timkin bearings, OEM quality without the silly LR cost.

Go for Optimal wheel bearings from Advanced Factors. They are half the price of Timken and come with a 4 year warranty. You cannot get better than that  Kev

MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

https://www.disco4.com/forum/lets-talk-wheel-bearings-184809.html Kev

MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

kav1187 wrote:

Hi Guys,

Here's how I changed my front wheel bearings. Larger pics are available in my gallery.

Tools:

Jack
Wheel Wrench
3 Tonne Axle Stands
32mm Socket
21mm AF Socket or ring end of spanner
15mm Socket
8mm Spanner
13mm Spanner
17mm Spanner
Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
Hammer/Mallet
Centre Punch
Chisel (flat)
T50 Torx
Thin flat bladed screw driver

Time: approx 1 hour

Torque Settings

Hub retaining bolts - 115nm
Disc support bolt - 35nm
Caliper Carrier (21mm bolts) - 275nm
Caliper bolts - 35nm
ABS sensor bolt - approx 20nm
Hub Nut - 230nm
Wheel bolts - 140nm

Prep:
Lower vehicle to access height
Lock vehicle in access height
Apply Electronic Park Brake (EPB)

Step 1
Using a thin, flat bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the centre cap out.



Step 2
Using the 32mm socket, loosen the hub nut but do not remove



Step 3
Loosen but do not remove the wheel nuts


Step 4
Lower vehicle to access height and lock. Apply EPB then jack the vehicle up remembering to use axle stands to support the weight.




Step 5
Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel

Step 6
Loosen the 13mm caliper bolts top and bottom. Use the 17mm spanner to hold the inner nuts still. Do not let the caliper hang by the flexi hose. I found that resting it on the ARB worked for me.



Step 7

Using a 21mm AF socket or ring end of a 21mm spanner, loosen the carrier bolts top and bottom and remove the carrier.



Step 8
Using the T50 torx, loosen the disc support bolt and pull the disc off.



You should be left with this



Step 9
Undo the 8mm ABS sensor bolt and carefully wiggle the sensor out.



Step 10
Use a wire brush and plenty of WD40 to clean the threads of the hub retaining bolts. Undo the four 15mm hub retaining bolts.




Step 11
Use the 32mm socket to remove the hub nut you loosened in step 2

Step 12
Push the driveshaft out of the hub. If it does not move then you will need to hammer it out either with a mallet or centre punch.

Step 13
Fit the new hub/bearing and hand tighten the hub nut to pull the driveshaft through.





Step 14
Fit and tighten the hub retaining bolts to 115nm.

Step 15
Fit ABS sensor and tighten 8mm bolt to approx 20nm.

Step 16
Fit disc and tighten disc retaining bolt to 35nm.

Step 17
Fit caliper carrier and tighten the 21mm bolts to 275nm.

Step 18
Fit caliper and tighten 13mm bolts to 35nm.

Step 19
Fit wheel and hand tighten the wheel nuts. Remove the axle stands and lower the car.

Step 20
Tighten hub nut to 230nm (used to be 275 but LR reduced it to 230 to put less stress on the bearings).



Step 21
Jack up the car. Remove the wheel and make a notch in the hub nut using a flat chisel.



Step 22
Fit wheel and nuts, lower the car and torque tighten wheel nuts to 140nm

Step 23
Fit centre cap


Step 24
Take the locking wheel nut out of the wheel

Step 25
Give yourself a pat on the back