Right, having a few problems, so after some advice / pointers please ….

I now have a replacement valve block, but cannot see how I remove the pipes from the existing block …. All nuts / bolts off etc, and working on the rear pipes first, I cannot get them to budge from the block … pulling them back doesn’t work, trying to lever the metal cover facing the block doesn’t get me anywhere.

My Plan B has been to remove / replace the PCV unit …. Got a 27mm spanner onto it, but both the nut and the thread are spinning (and annoyingly, this isn’t causing the PCV to loosen at the housing end) ….

Workshop manual doesn’t provide any eureka moment, so any suggestions welcome!

Yes corrosion!
See the plate surrounding the pipes , you need to loosen that with wd40 , it will be stuck against the valve block, pull it back a bit along the pipes then ease the pipes back one by one.

Sorry have to add , I may be talking rubbish , I think the front pipes are on a movable plate not the ones in your picture. Ill look again tomorrow .

So looking again , you have one of the nuts off the clamp , back to previous thread. A good soak with the release fluid to ease the plate back first.



























o
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Cheers, Alfapat - the rear plate only has a single nut, so I think I’m good there ….. I’ll give it a good soaking and see how I go. I’ve not disconnected the pipes from the rear ARB - am hoping that there’s enough play in the pipes to pull them back without any further disconnection, other than the rather grotty hanger further back from the valve block on the chassis.

" I’ll give it a good soaking and see how I go. I’ve not disconnected the pipes from the rear ARB - am hoping that there’s enough play in the pipes to pull them back without any further disconnection, other than the rather grotty hanger further back from the valve block on the chassis."



How did you get on with the pipe removal and VALVE exchange has that worked for you , but perhaps you've not got round to doing it yet.
I removed 5 of the pipes from s/h block I received ,which are very difficult Almost impossible without damaging them if you want to keep your original pipes. So not going try anything till warmer days and I dont need the beast.!



Presume it 18 in the picture . I now have a complete valve block and wandering if its worth just swapping the valve ,

Hey, in short, I've made it worse, depending on your point of view

I couldn't get the pipes off the ACE block, so I left my block in situ, and have replaced / swapped out the following:

Item 6 in the pic .... replaced with new
Item 18 in the pic ..... swapped with replacement
Item 3 in the pic (both) .... swapped with replacement
Item 19 in the pic .... swapped with replacement
Item 16 in the pic .... swapped with replacement

Item 5 sheared off when removing from the replacement, so that's no longer usable, and I'll need to get the 'other end' removed from the replacement block before that is usable.

After all the swaps, and various drives between each swap, the car still displayed the same behaviour, ie, a left hand bend would throw up the red light / the world is ending message, until it got to a point (within about 20 miles) whereby the light wouldn't go out after a reset. ...... so the result of that is that I get the 'bong' about 10 seconds after initial start up, which at leasts gets that out of the way!

In other news, the iCarSoft 3 that I bought sent the whole car into a complete tizzy, so I've sent that back, and 'just' have access to the 4 digit code reader for now. What I did find though was that if I reset the error with the iCarSoft with the engine running, the error would come straight back, which is different behaviour to previous.

So, the next step is to put all the original parts back to see if I can get the original failure scenario to repeat, ie, get it to an intermittent state. I'm not sure if red lights on the dash = instant MOT fail, hence want to try to get intermittent behaviour back before the next MOT.

An alternative is to trigger an amber light message, which means that the world isn't going to end - this can be done by unplugging pretty much any of the sensors going to the block ..... as this is different to the red light behaviour when everything is wired in, then I'm making the assumption that this is not a wiring fault!

So, there we go ...... not quite sure where to go with it next - think it still comes back to the original problem whereby the one part that I do not have (and am not prepared to buy) is the kit that allows all the valves to be opened to assist with bleeding ..... still can't fin a garage that has one, and am not even thinking about my local dealer (Barretts).

As the valves appear to be electric solenoids could you not just put a external power source to them to open them, as I would have though that is basically what the expensive L/R tool does. I am assuming the are 12 volt with a couple of wires going to them of course, and just connect some form of pressure bleeder like a garden sprayer to the reservoir to force fluid through in a similar vain to a brake pressure bleeder, only a though. As you have a spare valve block perhaps you could experiment with the solenoids on that to see if they will open.

Cheers
Col

Last edited by Col on Sun Feb 04 2024 11:15am. Edited 1 time in total

It’s a good thought …. I might try that on my sacrificial block and see what happens ….. but I’ll need to stop the system from instantly switching off first, otherwise suspect nothing will happen.

Could be that you have made some progress there . Would the new light warning (red anti roll ) just telling you now the system is needing bled . I got this after changing front pipes . I explained in this forum how I manually bled the system and it eventually bled through after running a few days. I manually bled one nipple as the other one sheared but it worked .

So will try swapping all valves from my newly acquired block . I have applied 12v and they all respond , I think all the internal valves including the one you snapped are just that, a piston with outlets . Still think if you can check all solenoids are responding to current , then its a bleed you need .

Ok , I am back on here , I have a s/h block and in order to eliminate my fault , I am going to swap the pressure sensor on the front of the block re code C1B11-1D(AF). I have checked the fuse for Active roll and it fine .

Has anyone tried removing and replacing this item 6 in the previous diagram. If looks are correct , the the block should come off the side of the chassis enough to remove /replace the pressure sensor

A short socket or spanner 27mm might help if there is some space behind the four pipes, maybe , anyone please. ?

Is the orange light on Active roll an MOT failure does anyone know please.

It can be done without unbolting the valve block. Bit tricky. I used a ford/Peugeot oil filter tool that I cut up, I had it in my toolbox anyway, they are cheap to buy though. Search eBay and you will see what I mean

Many thanks will have a look!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R4...p;_sacat=0

would this be the tool?

Yeah that's the one. I used it to remove the sensor then had to cut it in half to get the new one tight. There may be other ways to do it and I'm sure someone will give some input

Ok I’ll order up , looks like it loops over the pipes in situ and since they should not be fastened with a large torque. It should come out .

Currently researching whether this valve block or more importantly the pressure sensor is to blame , If it’s an easy change then it’s got to be a way forward .

Hi guys - sorry, been busy with work getting in the way of RRS valve block fun. To get the sensor off, I bought a cheap 27 / 32mm box spanner from Homebase, then cut it to size, so that I could get it over the sensor …. Also unbolted the block from the chassis rail to make a bit more room.

The box spanner has been useful for all the valve block jobs - too many obstacles in the way to use spanners and sockets really.

Not made progress on mine recently - I’ve ‘regressed’ the behaviour by reattaching the valve facing the back (18 in the diagram above) so that it’s back to failing on left turns ….. a bit stuck as to what to do next really ….

Regarding making a test harness to activate the solenoid, I’ve bought a replacement loom so that I have the correct connector, and wired it to 12 volts on my ‘spare’ block to see if something happens ….. nothing did, so maybe its more complex than just chucking some volts at a solenoid and something happens …. Need to research that one a bit more!