Hi all,

Looking for some advice around something I think is another 'known problem' with first gen L320's...instrument cluster intermittent fail / flash?

Ive done some searching, and I 'think' these are symptoms of a dry joint / known bad 1st gen cluster design? Solutions look to be either remove, disassemble, look for dry solders and reflow two specific chips on the board, or just buy a new old stock (not second hand) cluster and flash the ccf file across?

See photos (engine is running in all photos) - it started approx 6 weeks ago once, then nothing for a few weeks, then a few more random times. Yesterday and this morning its a constant fail with a few flashes of life randomly - and this morning the engine also suddenly went into what felt like limp mode (can't see dash message). Pull over, stop / restart then showed working rev counter, speedo and temp gauge, but no fuel (there is fuel. interestingly my android Torque OBD interface can't see the fuel level either, but it does show revs and speed whilst the cluster doesn't work), then suddenly some fuel, and black centre message box.

Indicators / hazards also do not work when the cluster is completely dead.

A few pics of my IID tool showing the Instrument Pack having a bit of a fault meltdown.

Open to recommendation / conversation.

Does this look like a cluster part issue or something else?

Thanks,
Duncan.

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Update: it all ‘appears’ to be fixed.

Another cause / solution I read was that the connector in the back of the cluster simple isn’t connected properly / needs reseating.

I stripped out the cluster, cleaned as best as possible both connector halves, reconnected, put it all back together, and it all seems to work again.

Let’s see for how long though..

If you do find you still have issues, their are outfits that repair instrument clusters, normally cheaper than having to fork out for a new unit. Have a look at "totaltronics", they have a repair while you wait or a mail order service. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Great, thanks for the info gogsy1956 - I’ll bear that in mind. 👍🏻👍🏻

So having got into the car this morning, its done it again. No lights, no displays, no needle movement. I do have a park brake light flashing a few times and then stops - I guess as part of a pre ignition systems test, and the immobiliser light still flashes as it should - but that's it. ffs.

Phone call to totaltronics I think now. Their website looks promising... https://totaltronics.com/instrument-cluste...er-repair/

For anyone referencing this post, totaltronics have saved the day. Patryk at totaltronics is an electronics wizard and fixed it within the hour.

Drive over to him, leave it with him, have a coffee, and its done. Bingo.

Highly recommended - thanks Patryk!

https://totaltronics.com/cat/land-rover/

Great result Dunc,,, if you don't mind me asking, what was at fault with the cluster and what was the cost?. 2010 RRS, TDV8
bali Blue / colour coded
side steps / flappy paddles
black perforated leather
22" overfinch
heated everything, TV,fridge ...... now with gold calipers and mud flaps !( black mud flaps that is) !!
Many years ago,,,,, 1955 series 1 landie , sometimes wish I had kept it

Patryk’s explanation is that it’s a regular fault (which researching beforehand had already suggested). He said there are areas on some of the boards where Land Rover applied some kind of (my words, not his there) epoxy / liquid cover (his words) over the components/ tracks. Over time, it eats away and breaks the connections - intermittent at first but getting worse over time - which was exactly my problem. My additional report of intermittent fuel gauge issue (not checked as standard - additional work request for this, so detail EXACTLY what your symptoms are if you engage his services) also meant looking at a different part of the board - all done (with any required action) for the same price and timeframe.

I’m taking his explanation of the issue at face value, but £239 for him to fix against £700 for a new one - and having to flash over the ccf and Lord knows what else with a new cluster, and no other options on the table, seemed like a no brainier to me.

I’ll really relax if I go a week with no repeat issue (it’s only been 2 days), but so far all appears well.

Here’s hoping this post doesnt jinx the whole repair!!

Yes, I may have got it done cheaper elsewhere, but time was very much of the essence for me and totaltronics was mentioned here. All appears well now, so I’m happy.