Hi guys, this is my first post and call for help! My 2012 model year RRS HSE went for mot yesterday and the garage could not open the bonnet. The release cable at the handle end seems fine and will not pull out so I don’t think it is broken. I am trying to fight my way in but failing badly. I have removed the left hand wheel arch liner but no way in there. I am trying to remove the grill but try as I might I can’t get the top clips to release. Now getting desperate and thinking of smashing the grill out but not sure if that will get me anywhere either? Someone must have had the issue before so any advice would be very welcome. This is now urgent as the MOT is about to run out. Thanks in advance for any advice, Hooversdad.

have you tried the easy test?

Get someone else to press hard down on the front of bonnet
left hand above one end of grill
right hand above other end of grill.

while you pull the release leaver inside.

Once leaver is fully pulled, the person should stop pressing and see if the bonnet pops up.

If it doesn't, keep leaver pulled and sharp short presses on the bonnet

or try lifting bonnet at each side to understand if 1 or both latches are stuck

Don't know if this works on the RRS, but worth a try


otherwise it maybe good to get the left headlight out and grill

Thanks for the reply but have tried all of the easy stuff. Can’t get the headlight out because I can’t get the grill off. Have spoken to local LR specialist who said to book it in so they can have a look. Maybe he has some trick of the trade? Really fed up with it, it has only done 40,000 miles and not what I expect from a “ quality vehicle”. It is covered under an extended warranty and they tell me the latch and lever are covered but not the cables so no doubt they will decline to cover unless the garage can be creative with the paperwork! It is booked in with them for its 40k service so hopefully they will be gentle on me. My BMW does not have this bother !

Be careful not to press too hard on the bonnet as it is a very thin skin and will dent easily! Widely spaced permanent hand prints are not what you really want on your car 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

Just had a look at mine (SC) and the cable runs inside the engine bay over the top of the wheel arch so no way to get to it through the right wheel arch liner.

There’s 2 latches so if both are locked the cable is either snapped before it splits or it’s seized. I’ve a feeling it’s seized on one of the latches. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Another thought, will the handle move at all? If not it’s seized. On my car I could spray WD40 (with the red straw attached) through the grill onto each lock, let it sink in for a while and try again. It may be messy with oil going all over but a clean ups got to be easier an cheaper than breaking bits.

Oh and you can’t get the light out with the bonnet down, the locking bar has to lift out vertically. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Handle moves freely and returns to rest position when released so I know the cable is not siezed. I am away on holiday at the moment but have conjured up a cunning plan using an old hacksaw blade and some nylon cord to try when I get home next week. If it works I will share the idea on here as it may well help someone else.

If it moves and returns, that may be a snapped Bowden cable. I’m not sure where the return spring is on the bonnet catch but I’d guess there’s one on the handle. It may be worth taking the handle off and making sure the cable is still attached. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Torx drive to remove handle