Aaargh, after pulling out of a junction and flooring my 2008 rrs tdv8 I experienced a loss of power and clouds of white smoke.
I stopped the engine after pulling over, waited a few mins then started the engine again, same white smoke.
I suspect issues with one or both the turbos's.

lifted the bonnet, coolant looks good, no white sludge in oil filler cap. no oil in the exhaust tips.

Ive had the vehicle brought back home on the back of a recovery waggon.

My question is,

What can i check myself before getting the experts involved?
I'm a competant mechanic but geared up for major engine work.
Is there anything I can monitor with my GAP tool, pressures etc?

Car has 70k miles and a BAS remap via GAP Tool.

White smoke is generally water isn't it? Head gasket, etc.... Get a 2005-2009 RRS (FAH500210) sat nav/dash mat here - the one that wasn't there when you bought the car.

Spiffing wheel centre caps available

Possibly, but the coolant did not boil out when I took the expansion tank cap off and there was no white sludge in the oil filler cap.
I suppose I could start the engine and determine if its water vapour coming out.

Sounds like turbo...

I agree with Disco_Mikey. Same symptoms as when my old TDV8 blew its turbos. 2012 SDV6 - it's missing a couple of cylinders
2008 TDV8 - it was a labour of love and is much missed

Ay, more than likely turbo or turbo's.
Is there a way to confirm it's the turbo before removing the body.
what's a ball park figure for a repair of this kind.
Is there anyone in the south yorks area that can do this work bar the main dealer.

Downpipes off, and check for oil or seized shaft

Also worth checking the boost pipes at the bottom of the Intercooler, most likely they will be full of oil...

I have just put my flexi camera down the air intakes to the turbo. on the front pipe it came out covered in oil.

Ouch

There's always a bit or oil near a turbo.

It when you get soaked you need to worry

Low miles for a turbo ? Not saying it isn't but these days turbos should go way longer. I have seem turbo land cruisers with 600,000 Kilometers and still going well. M16 SVD8 ,4.4 HSE with a few extras, Sold R50 , Wife SQ5 , BMW R1200GSW.

Fingers crossed for you. Did both the turbos on my SDV6. It was not a cheap job.

I’ve read on the forum that the TDV8 Turbos can fail early if the engine is turned off while the Turbos are still spinning at fast RPM. Something to do with the distance the Turbos are from the engine and the long oil pipes (Because the engine bay is so tight). 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

I have personally always let any turbo car I have owned spin down first before switch off, and after a hard drive idle for 30 secs or so. That said I mentioned this on a separate thread and it is fair to day others disagreed saying on a modern car not necessary. I prefer my way but each to their own I suppose.

For the sake of 30 seconds it’s worth it....or take the risk of the bearing burning out, easy choice for me. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph