Hi all,
Hoping somebody can please advise.
My sons 2.7 TDV6 (2007) has started blowing out black smoke from exhausts under acceleration. Couldn't see any splits or leaks on inter-cooler hose from top of engine so was about to jack up and look at the lower end when i noticed oil residue on lower grill. Guess this looks like a blown inter-cooler?
If so, is it a diy job. I am pretty handy with engines but wondered about any major pitfalls?
Is there any write ups anywhere as i have done a search but cannot find any details on removal/replacement.
Many thanks in advance,

Gary.

Here's a air-con condenser removal from a disco so you can see what to strip from the front to remove it almost the same as a sport also i think the front bumper needs to come off as i think the intercooler is right at bottom if i remember


https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/air-con-con...ER+REMOVAL

Here is another one for a disco but with more pics you will see the difference to the sport and change accordingly

https://www.disco3club.co.uk/gallery/album...20V1_2.pdf

Thanks Geoff, that's brilliant. Never thought of looking at Disco site, is most of the engine/drivetrain maintenance similar to the v6 disco? eg cv joints etc?

Gary.

Yes they use the same components just different bodywork

I have a supercharged and had to replace the blower rad a few weeks back.
It's not difficult. The problem is not really knowing what to remove to get to it. The only major issue I had was two lower bumper bolts snapped so I had to drill them out and retap.
I dont know about the diesels but mine has 3 rads with the intercooler in the middle. I managed to get it out without disconnecting the AC rad but it's a lot of fiddling and using harsh language..

The inter-cooler is below/behind the crash bar so all that needs to come out

I have just looked at that landrover discovery method. It looks like the intercooler is small compared to mine so would probably come out easier. I forgot to mention that I lifted the radiator units up so they could go back towards the engine to enable room for the intercooler to be removed.
To give you an idea I had the AC rad replaced for £420 at a local garage all inc. That includes £105 for condenser and £60 ac regard.
I did the intercooler myself this time but you need to ask if it's worth the agro..

Mine was duff recently and rather than drop it in the indy (3 week wait at Land Ranger), one of our our own vacuum cleaner engineers (an ex Mercedes commercial van mechanic) did it.

>>Here<< is a photo of the duff unit. Get a 2005-2009 RRS (FAH500210) sat nav/dash mat here - the one that wasn't there when you bought the car.

Spiffing wheel centre caps available

Well, started stripping today. Looks like both hose & intercooler gone! When i removed the bumper, i noticed a couple of connectors under the drivers headlight aperture. To the side of these, was another connector which appears to have 2 green cables coming out of it but they seem to be cut off? Is this normal? I will try post pics of it. Can anybody identify this connector please?

They are green sealing plugs to prevent water getting in.

If you had Tyre Pressure Monitor, they would connect to sensors

Brilliant, thanks Andy! Well, not brilliant really, thought it might be reason for Red suspension light on constantly (more like wishful thinking!)
It's my sons car. It has the ace bars and as soon as ignition is turned and engine starts, red light is on solid. Suspension raises and lowers as it should so guess problem lies with hydraulic side. Local Indy claim to have changed the filter that is housed in the valve block on the sill but no change. There are no visible leaks to front or rear bars. I am fearing it might be the pump or valve block? Can anybody give me any advice on where to start looking? If I get codes read, will it just say pressure fault?
Many thanks in advance,
Gary.

Start the engine, take off the Dynamic Response reservoir cap and see if you can see the oil flowing back into the reservoir. If you can see flow, the pump is producing some pressure at least. Did the garage replace the filter after the fault or before? Filter replacement shouldn’t require bleeding but if they thought it did, and tried, they may have introduced air into the ARB. That’s a simple fix with some home made bits. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

If you come down Newark way anytime give me a shout and we can check the block etc. With my DIY test kit. 2012 5.0 SC AB
Mods:
TPMS
Genuine LR DRLs
Remote Boot close from key fob
2016 Discovery 4 Mirrors AKA RRS2
2014 L405 Surround Camera retro fit (WIP)
2013 RRS Dual View Screen fit (Complete)
2016 LR4 RSE
2014 LR4 Homelink
2016 FFRR Electrochromatic Wing Mirror Glass

70 plate Focus ST (Current)
1942 VEP Ford GPW Jeep (Willys) (Current)
1943 Whites M16 Halftrack (Current)
16 plate Eurofighter Typhoon, 2 x Eurojet engines with 20,000lbs thrust each. 1380mph

Thanks, very generous offer, might take you up on it in near future!