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Geezer123



Member Since: 24 Feb 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 14

England 
LED fault

Hi folks.
Rightly or wrongly I have fitted a set of LED daytime running lights made by a reputable aftermarket lighting supplier purchased for £60 from a well known automotive shop!
They actually look good and on the driveway with the engine running performed as they should.
When travelling above 30mph they start to flicker independently of each other. I cannot replicate this fault when revving the car at stand still, in brief the fault occurs on the move.
I have been back and forwards to the supplier and manufacturer who cannot offer a solution.
I have discovered that my year of RRS 2007 has a ‘smart alternator’ that sends pulses through the cars system checking circuits etc. I have heard that these aftermarket LED’s don’t like these pulses and will not function correctly.
I have tried wiring directly to the battery poles, wiring to a spare fuse and introduced a relay but to no avail.
I have seen YouTube clips of other makes of car using a capacitor or resistor that interrupts and absorbs the pulses when wired into the power supply to the DRL’s.
My question is has anyone experienced the same and can it be rectified etc.

Many thanks in advance.

Post #549640 Sat Feb 24 2018 10:59pm
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jason-nike



Member Since: 08 Nov 2013
Location: sussex
Posts: 100

England 

When I fitted drl rings to mine I wired the live into a spare ignition live in the fuse box and earthed them to a nut on the bodywork in the engine bay, lights came on when ignition was turned on and went off when it was turned off, no flickering at all


Post #549650 Sun Feb 25 2018 7:57am
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Andy K



Member Since: 18 Sep 2015
Location: GL
Posts: 2270

England 2005 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Rimini Red

well you have 2 choices.

1) try and resistor and capacitor
2) some how remove the cleaver circuitry in the lights and connect to ignition (but I guess half the circuit is required??)

Post #549658 Sun Feb 25 2018 9:59am
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Geezer123



Member Since: 24 Feb 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 14

England 

jason-nike wrote:
When I fitted drl rings to mine I wired the live into a spare ignition live in the fuse box and earthed them to a nut on the bodywork in the engine bay, lights came on when ignition was turned on and went off when it was turned off, no flickering at all




Thanks Jason. Do you have a module of some sort for your headlights. Just wondering if they have something incorporated to let them work properly.

Post #549681 Sun Feb 25 2018 2:10pm
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Geezer123



Member Since: 24 Feb 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 14

England 

Andy K wrote:
well you have 2 choices.

1) try and resistor and capacitor
2) some how remove the cleaver circuitry in the lights and connect to ignition (but I guess half the circuit is required??)


Hi Andy.

You are correct, a resistor or capacitor is required. The manufacturers, to be fair, sent a technician out who tried a small module but it didn’t work. There are hundreds of different values for resistors and the only real way to determine the correct one would be to have an oscilloscope connected to measure the fluctuations caused by the alternator. However as the fault only occurs on the move it’s not feasible to have an oscilloscope connected. On YouTube they put a very high value one on their circuit for I think a Subaru and it worked. The downside for too higher value is that it may effect something else on the car, something I want to avoid.

Apparently the car can be kicking out 35amps on the move checking suspension, lights all sorts. To find a simple solution to the DRT’s is proving to be very frustrating. The manufacturers are saying they are working at it but 6 months have elapsed, I have drilled through my bumper and feeling pretty annoyed by it all.

Considering fitting some decent looking spot lights in keeping with the car instead.

Post #549682 Sun Feb 25 2018 2:32pm
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Geezer123



Member Since: 24 Feb 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 14

England 



Post #549685 Sun Feb 25 2018 2:47pm
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Andy K



Member Since: 18 Sep 2015
Location: GL
Posts: 2270

England 2005 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Rimini Red

Got any links to the video's ?

I think you would need to know how much current the LEDs draw

Post #549686 Sun Feb 25 2018 2:57pm
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Andy K



Member Since: 18 Sep 2015
Location: GL
Posts: 2270

England 2005 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Rimini Red

If they are manufactured by ring, have you tried disconnecting the side yellow light wire?
Might be worth a go on the off chance that is the problem

or do still flicker with the cars side lights on ?

Post #549689 Sun Feb 25 2018 3:07pm
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Geezer123



Member Since: 24 Feb 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 14

England 

Hi Andy. Yes disconnected the yellow wire that connects to the lights.



This is one of quite a few that have appeared on YouTube since I last looked.

Post #549690 Sun Feb 25 2018 3:21pm
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Andy K



Member Since: 18 Sep 2015
Location: GL
Posts: 2270

England 2005 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Rimini Red

Humm... That could be a different issue

Post #549692 Sun Feb 25 2018 4:03pm
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Geezer123



Member Since: 24 Feb 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 14

England 

Pics of my drl’s

Post #549695 Sun Feb 25 2018 5:00pm
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Socast



Member Since: 25 Sep 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 593

United Kingdom 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged Santorini Black

You hit the nail on the head in your first post, you need to add a capacitor between the input and your DRL controller. This will smooth the power and prevent the spikes/pulses caused by the alternator. If you fit a cap you will also need to fit a diode to prevent the cap sending power the wrong way when you switch off the ignition.

Post #549773 Mon Feb 26 2018 2:33pm
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Geezer123



Member Since: 24 Feb 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 14

England 

Thanks for the info. The diode sounds sensible. I think I will buy a capacitor and diode. A couple of queries remain though ie what specification/values do I need and is it a per lamp unit or can I use one on the feed to the lights in their loom before they split to each DRL light unit.

Post #549779 Mon Feb 26 2018 3:27pm
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Socast



Member Since: 25 Sep 2014
Location: Somerset
Posts: 593

United Kingdom 2006 Range Rover Sport Supercharged Santorini Black

It will all depend on your setup. The diode and cap will need to be before the DRL controller/s. I would think that you only have a single controller that feeds both DRLs and has a live, negative and sensor input. So solder the diode to the cap (ensuring that it's facing the right way of course) then solder the other leg of the cap to the positive wire on the DRL controller, diode side goes to the ignition live.

For the diode you will be able to user a 1N5404, for the cap, something rated around 47uf and 25v will do the trick

As an FYI, the sensor wire will need to be reconnected as they need to dip when your headlights come one or you could be stopped by the rozzers!

EDIT:

Sorry, my explanation is clear as mud Rolling with laughter

The lamps are fed by the controller, so you need the cap and diode between the positive feed from the car and the DRL controller. You will only need a single diode and cap Thumbs Up

Post #549782 Mon Feb 26 2018 3:39pm
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Geezer123



Member Since: 24 Feb 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 14

England 

That’s awesome. Many thanks for this. I will get some ordered and get out and fit them. I will wait for the beast from the east to do it’s worst then post the results.

Post #549786 Mon Feb 26 2018 4:00pm
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