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slinger



Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Loughborough, Leicestershire
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 
Sump Guard Removal

I am having a real problem getting all the bolts out from the sump guard to change the oil on my 58 RRS. It supposedly had an oil change at a LR dealer 10 months ago but the bolts are rusted absolute solid. After a new set of grip tite sockets i have removed all but three which I think I will have to go down the weld a nut over the top route to remove, the heads are knackered. My worry is that I might shear captive nuts off behind the sump guard. Does anybody have any pictures or info of what the plate bolts to.

Post #538781 Fri Oct 20 2017 9:20am
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Paddi



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 1459

United Kingdom 2008 Range Rover Sport TDV8 HSE Java Black

I feel your pain; having recently struggled with one of the bolts on my undertray.

Possibly the previous oil change was done using an extractor to suck the old oil out via the dip stick tube. Most dealers do it this way?

Unless already done you should try to soak the captive nuts with penetrating oil - access above the undertray is possible but awkward. Maybe try some Irwin bolt grips as they work differently to grip tites.

Again - you may have already noticed that the front two bolts have ordinary locking nuts not captive types.

For the other captive nuts - they seem to be tack welded to the chassis quite solidly. I would think the risk of shearing the bolts is greater than that of detaching the nuts.

Good luck - with a bit of penetrating oil and heat cycling from the weld they should come off cleanly. Luckily new bolts are available from Land Rover but they are a bit pricy at £3.62 each ex VAT. Big Cry 2008 MY Java Black TDV8 HSE

Post #538796 Fri Oct 20 2017 1:22pm
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GARYF123



Member Since: 03 Jan 2015
Location: leeds
Posts: 32

United Kingdom 2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6 HSE Stornoway Grey

Hi, I had same problem last week! I ended up using a angle grinder with thin metal cutting disc and cut slot into bolt head. I cut full depth which allowed me to knock the bolt round. I could also reuse the butchered bolts to temporarily hold the tray until I purchase replacements. I don't think you will damage the welded captive nuts as I was using a impact wrench, hammering and grinding and they didn't budge!

Gary.

Post #538858 Sat Oct 21 2017 1:23pm
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slinger



Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Loughborough, Leicestershire
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 

Thanks for the replies guys. Seems this is yet another design feature from Land Rover. I managed to get the last three bolts out with an air chisel and using a hammer and chisel. Replacement Land Rover bolts all round would have been over £30 but I got a full set of flanged bolts and bought nuts, springs and washers for all for only £3. I didn't need nuts on all but with not knowing what I would end up with and for the cost I didn't want to half do the job. Copious amounts of copper grease and it is all back together after changing the oil.

So what set out to be an 20 min job took me three weeks !!! Just love these machines !!!

Post #538871 Sat Oct 21 2017 4:08pm
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RRSTDV8



Member Since: 12 Aug 2011
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 5480

United Kingdom 2008 Range Rover Sport TDV8 HSE Stornoway Grey

It makes one wonder how careful the servicing has been if the bolts were so badly seized / corroded. Taking the sump plates off would be part of an oil change... 2012 SDV6
2008 TDV8 - it's a labour of love

Post #538888 Sun Oct 22 2017 7:19am
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