I have had oil pump failure TDV6 (2007), and so far have replaced oil pump, timing belt and tensioner, set timing up with tool and now at the stage where need to do top end of engine? Calling all experts out there who have completed this job before. Should I strip one head down first and see what the damage to valves etc is first? Best stockist for engine component of this nature?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

I'd recommend autoreserve off ebay, who sell Jag 2.7 heads for £100 each

Thanks Andy K. I take it from a mechanical point of view that would be a straight swap, off with my heads and on with the replacements heads, would you agree? Anyone else out there have any advice i.e. previous guides or write ups of this specific job  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Hmm if the heads will need replacement then at least pistons will also need to be done. After all the only reason the head sget damaged is because the valves have been bashing the piston tops.

Garry 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

If pistons do require changing would a visible check be enough to determine this once the engine is taken to pieces?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Calling out to DM I was hoping to get your valued opinion on such a topic  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Some people will say the heads should be skimmed, but a clean up and inspection with a straight edge maybe sufficient.

Hopefully pistons won't require changing. or 1 worse case?

start on page 4 here

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic154075-45.html

Thanks Andy K... yes I did think that about the head skimming part. As no doubt some people would have had there engine exposed to heat warping at some level and have had them skimmed, but hopefully not needing to go down that way after oil pump failure. I do hope the pistons don't require changing either, but I'm not 100% sure of this, would a visible inspection be suffice? RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

would a compression test be the way to go just now, is this a better way to determine what is knackered?  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

Just seeking clarification - when you say you had oil pump failure I assume you had the cam belt idler mount failure rather than your oil pump that is in the housing fail. So your engine never had oil pressure loss.

When the cam belt cam off, your valves would have crashed into the top of the pistons causing damage to the valve train and maybe the cam chain - possibly bending/breaking valves and possibly putting large gouges in the top of the pistons and the head side of the combustion chambers.

Really you need to pull both heads and inspect - I really do not see any short cut.

If it were a 300 TDI diesel you could almost guarantee the head and pistons would be OK as the rockers are the weakpoint and these bend - so new rockers etc will generally fix it but I understand the the TDV6 the valve gear is a bit stronger so the damage is more widespread.

As per your original post - pull the heads and see what you have. 07MY RRS TDV6
Arctic Frost
Aspen Interior

Yes you are correct, tensioner mount failure on the oil pump casing.

Indeed, no short cut here, just would like some sort of confirmation of the steps required so I am working in the most efficient way possible in a nightmare scenario such as this one i.e. would a compression test be the way to go first, would that tell me what is/what is not smashed to pieces (pistons, valves) or is it down to a taking the head off and visually checking from there?

Going back a few steps when setting up the timing I did notice that the passenger side cam was not on under tension when turning it round using a socket to the timing hole, it simply moved freely, but the drivers side felt spring loaded when turning with a socket and trying to put the timing pin in.

I also turned the engine over with key once I got everything back together (I know, was just under the illusion that it might just start ) and it sounds like it wants to start but almost like it is being starved of diesel. I was told that this is down to the valves lacking compression by being damaged. Does that sound familiar to the experts out there?

Yes I was planning on taking both heads off but was going to start by stripping one of at a time. With my description above regarding the cams would it be worth taking the left or right off head off first or doesn't it matter.  RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8

having got it all timed up and having tried to start it maybe worth continuing.

For every one turn of the crank, the cams only turn half a turn, so you need to be sure (somehow) that you have it correctly in phase. I think this would stop it starting.

The cam having no tension does sound very worrying (just depends how bad) (although yes the drivers side is worse as a value is open at TDC) , and yes it does sound like you need to get that rocker cover off first (lots needs to be removed, injectors, fuel rail, fuel rail mounting bracket), (cams have been known to snap ) and this would prevent the rear driven fuel pump working, if its the left side. Another reason for it not to start.

You can't really compression test these engines that I know. Glow plugs snap if you try to remove them, Don't know of an injector fitted compression tester.

Best get than cam cover off ...

do you still have the cam belt cover off ?

When you say trying starting it may be worth continuing, what exactly do you mean?

When trying to start it as it is I unscrewed the drivers side fuel rail bolt thinking fuel would leak out but it initially didn't it was only when I turned it over with the key again that fuel then streamed out, would this suggest the fuel pump it working correctly?

To get the timing to what I think is the correct phase after putting it all back together I turned the cams to the original paint marks then put the timing pins in place then proceeded to take starter out and lock the fly wheel, then put timing belt on and set tensioner in window then hand cranked for two cycles then put all the pins back in place and everything seemed to line up. Would this be the correct way to go about it?

When you say take the rocker cover off, should I take the left hand side (passenger side) off first, this is the side that runs the fuel pump, correct?

Cam belt cover is all back in place. I had to put it all back together as I tried to start it by turning it over with the key. RRS 2.7 HSE Stornoway Grey
P38 4.6 HSE V8