Hi and please forgive me if this question has been asked before - I'm getting to grips with the forum search facility but am no exert yet!

I am keen to know if there is a specific sequence to connect a 12v tyre compressor to the battery with croc coips. I'm familiar with the standard 'red followed by black' but have been a bit concerned by comments that suggest the 'brains' of my era may be rattled if the normal sequence for connecting to other vehicles is followed.

Could anyone possibly put my mind at rest and offer the correct method please?

Many thanks
Andy

Firstly, welcome to the forums.
Sorry not a lot of help but convert the crocs to a cigarette lighter plug.............. 2020 Pangea Green 1st Edition D240 New Defender 110 is here and loving it
2018 Melting Silver Mini Countryman PHEV - soon to be replaced
2015MY Corris Grey SDv6 HSE Dynamic, the best car I have ever owned, totally reliable only a cou0le of rattles in 3 years, now no longer in my care
Also in my garage is a 1996 TDi300 Defender 90 County HT made into a fake CSW

Welcome top the forum

I always connect the positive (RED) lead first, but disconnect the RED lead first when disconnecting.

Disconnect earth lead first, reconnect last.....what I was taught.
i think most Sports have an earth post so use that..... Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* Current: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
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Now he is confused ..

Dr Rob, you was taught wrong.

DrRob wrote:

Disconnect earth lead first, reconnect last.....what I was taught.
i think most Sports have an earth post so use that.....

If we are talking about a battery, always disconnect the negative before positive, and reverse to reconnect (the reason being, that the whole car is grounded, so if you touch the car when removing the positive terminal, you'd complete a circuit).

In terms of a compressor or other device, it makes as good as no difference but there would be a tiny, tiny, tiny potential benefit to connecting the negative first - for basically the same reason in the event of faulty wiring etc.

If connecting jump leads to another vehicle/battery, I'd always connect the positive first, then negative, because it prevents the possibility of shorting via the vehicle ground.

 Visiting from DISCO3.CO.UK
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Auto HSE Zambezi Silver

Dear All
Many thanks for your quick replies. I think that as it's a tyre compressor I'm using rather than replacing the battery or using jump leads, I'll take the low risk option and connect the negative first to ground it in case there is anything iffy relating to the circuitry of either my car or compressor.

Grateful for your support!

Andy

This is what I did, just hard wired in a Anderson Plug and then fitted a plug to my Compressor, C-tek etc. so it's basically just "Plug and Play"

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Blackadderyork wrote:

I'm familiar with the standard 'red followed by black'

I'm afraid it's quite the opposite. You disconnect the BLACK (negative/ground) first.

EDIT - seems I've been beaten to this by people waking up earlier than myself. Well, at least I reiterate this: BLACK disconnects first  Regards etc.,

Wojtek

---
WAS: 2006 RRS Supercharged
IS: 2010 RRS TDV8 HSE

Thanks wojtek, but I'm not looking to disconnect my battery, just connect a tyre compressor using croc clips. I appreciate your reply.

Col, that looks a neat solution and I assume there is a straightforward means to connect the wire for the anderson to the battery. My car is a 2011 RRS hse and there isn't much room under the lid.

Cheers
Andy

The car's a MY13 5.0L S/C and there is plenty of room as I didn't connect direct to battery, I will take a couple of pictures of the connections later if you want.

Cheers
Col

Col wrote:

DrRob wrote:

Disconnect earth lead first, reconnect last.....what I was taught.
i think most Sports have an earth post so use that.....

Yep disconnect Negative (Earth) First and Reconnect Last that is what I was taught as well, If it's wrong I have been doing it wrong for longer than a lot of Guys on the forum have been Born.

I think you are wrong Ady but stand to be corrected.

Cheers
Col

I stand corrected
Just goes to show, you can't believe everything you are told.

Apologies Dr Rob.

All good here  Visitor from fullfatrr.com
* GONE. 2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Now being piloted by RRSTDV8
* Current: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* Current. 1974 Lightweight 2.25L petrol. Old skool
* GONE. Freelander GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* GONE. Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

Col, that would be great thanks.
Andy